Hotel restaurants? We usually dismiss them as boring and predictable. But with a tough economy and the high cost of running a restaurant, more talented toques are cooking in hotel settings.

So here's former Ritz-Carlton Manalapan chef Sean McDonald, with years at Michelin-rated restaurants in his native England, at the helm of Ilios, an unexpected gem on the sixth floor of the oceanfront Hilton Fort Lauderdale Beach Resort. There's a limited traditional menu, but the main dinner attraction is the fantastic array of tapas: creative, well-executed and certainly not boring.

The best dining experience at Ilios (Greek for sun) is to be had outside. On our first visit, we were seated inside with a view of the glass-enclosed gym across the hall. (We'd rather not think about working off calories until we've had a chance to enjoy them!) The small dining room has sophisticated accents (glasswork, wall carvings) and a cool, illuminated bar.

Service was a bit slow because of a large party in an adjoining private room. The second time around, everything clicked. We dined outside on the lovely poolside terrace under a sprawling canopy, enjoying cool ocean breezes and a panoramic view of the beach (ignore the nearby construction).

But Ilios isn't just another pretty face. McDonald is here to wow your palate, starting with a basket of warm green-olive, multigrain and sourdough rolls and a mini baguette with dips including balsamic vinegar and roasted garlic in tangerine and olive oil.

If you want to sample, 20 wines are available in small pours ($3-$6 for two ounces, $10-$15 for five ounces). There are about 70 bottles on the pricey wine list.

Sampling is a good way to go with your dinner order, too. You can't go wrong with ''Sean's Tasting Menu,'' a five-course meal chosen by the chef: soup, salad, three ceviche ''spoons,'' two tapas, a mini cheese plate with three picks and two small desserts ($45).

Start with the heavenly asparagus cappuccino soup. It's velvety smooth with a pure, garden-fresh flavor, garnished with a pencil-thin breadstick floating on milk foam with a whisper of truffle oil. Light enough for a summer's day. A salad of silky orzo tossed with sautéed calamari, smoky chorizo and arugula left us yearning for more.

For really small bites, order some spoons. We savored snapper ceviche, a raw blue-point oyster in a mignonette (a white wine reduction with black pepper) and bracing tuna tartare garnished with a quail egg.

The terrific hot and cold tapas include braised veal cheeks with risotto in a rich stock; buttery escargot with plump gnocchi sautéed with basil pesto, sun-dried tomatoes and arugula; a luscious golden-diver scallop with a large osso bucco ravioli; yogurt-marinated swordfish atop yellow and green tomatoes; and shaved prosciutto with green olive pesto.

We also couldn't resist the perfectly crunchy french fries, flecked with rosemary with just a hint of truffle oil.

Entrees on the standard menu include filet mignon, Moroccan chicken and our choice, hangar steak -- tender and juicy, though not as memorable as the tapas.

Desserts are also dazzling -- and different. Decadent chocolate-croissant bread pudding is drizzled with chocolate sauce and served with a dollop of cinnamon gelato over blackberries. Caramelized bananas add to the richness of a chocolate hazelnut tarte. Spoons of crème brlée come in vanilla, chocolate, pistachio or caramelized orange. Or indulge in shot glasses filled with mini treats: one a twist on Key lime pie with layered ginger, Key lime and coconut cream; another teams ricotta cheesecake with marinated figs.

Ilios has plans for an elaborate Sunday brunch and meals in private cabanas. So forget boredom. Think: vacation.

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