Sushi isn't always the most budget-friendly dinner, but sometimes you just have to splurge.

One way to keep the costs down is with a Pan Asian meal, mixing in some stir-fry or noodle dishes that are more filling for the same money.

SUSHI CAFE & THAI CUISINE

Almost a year ago Sushi Cafe moved across the street and tripled its size. The new location is helping the Pembroke Pines restaurant expand its following.

The management has livened up the former Atlanta Bread Company with a bright yellow-and-green decor. The bustling atmosphere is kid-friendly but still good for a casual date night.

Whether you like Thai or sushi, the kitchen does a great job. Sushi rolls can be upgraded to contain brown rice for $1 each, and the upgrade is well worth it.

The two rolls we ordered were loaded with fish, and the nutty taste of the brown rice made them incredibly satisfying: Birthday Roll contained shrimp tempura, eel and asparagus; and Bob's Roll, wahoo, shrimp and crab topped with snapper tempura.

The chicken mushroom garlic stir fry featured shiitake mushrooms and other vegetables in a soy garlic sauce that was flavorful but too heavy on soy sauce. Pad thai was a solid execution of a classic, with a side of peanut sauce. Each dish also came with a choice of salad or miso soup.

Sushi Cafe & Thai Cuisine, 2112 N. Flamingo Rd., Pembroke Pines, 954-437-5558; www.sushicafeonline.com. Appetizers $2.25-$11.25; cooked entrees $10.50-$17.50 and sushi rolls $5.25-$12.25.

YUMMY ASIAN GRILL

Yummy Asian Grill's Pan Asian menu includes enough variety that you would have to return at least a dozen times to sample everything in its Chinese, Thai and Japanese repertoire.

Open since February in Miramar's Shoppes of Silver Isles, the restaurant is still trying to become noticed, despite the large banner outside. It was half empty on a Saturday night, but it's definitely worth discovering if you're in the neighborhood.

The salmon California roll was an upgrade on the classic. The Szechuan platter, a specialty, lived up to its billing with a plentiful mix of shrimp, chicken, roast pork and vegetables flavored with just the right blend of sweet and spicy.

Honey garlic chicken used well-sized chunks of chicken breast, rather than the dark or processed meat found in many restaurants.

We were disappointed that the kitchen was out of Chow Fun, another house specialty. Instead we tried the Pad Thai but sent it back because it came with a spicy red sauce, rather than the more traditional peanut flavor we prefer.

Ultimately we ended up with the roast pork pan-fried noodles, another winner, although most of the noodles were more soggy than crispy.

Yummy Asian Grill, 16283 Miramar Pkwy., Miramar; 954-392- 8899; www.yummyasiangrill.com; Sushi rolls $5.75-$15.94; most Chinese/Thai dishes $8.50-$16.95; tempura/teriyaki dishes $9.95-$17.95.

TOKYO SUSHI

In East Fort Lauderdale, where most restaurants come and go, this cozy Japanese landmark has stood the test of time.

Open since 1995, the place hasn't jumped on the multi-Asian concept that you find in most restaurants. It sticks to sushi, teriyaki, tempura, noodle dishes and other Japanese specialties.

We went straight for the house specialty rolls, some unique combinations that you don't find elsewhere. For the health conscious there are a number of no-rice rolls with cucumber or soy paper.

We tried a sampler: Andy Roll (cooked salmon and whitefish), Japanese Village Roll (tuna, salmon, hamachi and avocado), and Holly Day Roll (salmon, asparagus and avocado rolled and topped with tilapia tempura). Then we also got a simple shrimp roll and an order of shumai, steamed shrimp dumplings.

Our favorites were the Holly Day, the Japanese Village and the shumai. But we probably should have substituted a cooked dish for one, because our hungry eater wasn't completely satisfied.

Tokyo Sushi, 1499 SW 17th St. Cswy., Fort Lauderdale; 954-767- 9922; www.iluvtokyosushi.com; Appetizers $4.25-$8.50; specialty rolls $7.50-$13.50; Japanese hot dishes $7.25-$14.95

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