The new Sage French American Café in Hollywood is a sassier version of its sibling in Fort Lauderdale. In fact, you wouldn't guess at first that the two are related.

The Hollywood setting -- a long narrow storefront with Art Deco-style lighting, a stone facade and a Chihuly chandelier -- is hip and contemporary. After work, it's downright boisterous, attracting a younger clientele that doesn't mind the buzzy din at peak hours. Skip prime time if you want to enjoy a conversation.

The atmosphere is quite different from the original, 18-year-old Sage, but the two restaurants do have something in common -- owner Laurent Tasic's popular menu, with Francophile favorites like escargot, French onion soup and coq au van along with an oyster bar and new specials. Open since November in the former Michael's, it offers two-for-one lunches and a reasonably priced menu.

On both visits, our server was fantastic, making us feel pampered even when the place was packed. He took time to explain the choices at the oyster bar before we decided on an assortment of plump, meaty Connecticut Blue Point and Massachusetts Island Creek mollusks plus buttery Kumamotos, saltier Fanny Bays and smaller, sweeter ones from British Colombia, all flown in daily. They're scrumptious, served with Tabasco and three sauces -- zesty cocktail, horseradish and my favorite, mignonette (red wine vinegar with shallots).

Our server was also on target with his suggestion of a lovely French rosé, Whispering Angel, from a thoughtful wine list priced at $25 to $100 with 18 by-the-glass choices.

Though the decor is contemporary, most dishes are traditional, including chicken liver pté, grilled artichokes and French onion soup. The cream of mushroom soup has lots of sliced mushrooms in a light, pleasant broth with just a touch of cream. And you can't miss with the baked brie, served with a sweet raspberry sauce and apple chutney.

Sage's biggest seller is its roasted half duck -- the Fort Lauderdale restaurant sells 12,800 plates a year, Tasic says. We loved the crispy skin and the dark juiciness of the tender meat, complemented by a honey raspberry sauce.

All the meat is organic, including the ground veal and beef tenderloin meatloaf, American comfort food elevated by a classic mushroom-merlot sauce served with creamy mashed potatoes and julienne vegetables.

Gratinée de la mer is like baked macaroni and cheese made with penne, jack and Parmesan cheeses and lots of perfectly cooked shrimp, scallops and mussels, served with a green salad.

A friend was disappointed that the coquilles St. Jacques was not the creamy classic with a puff pastry but simply pan-seared (albeit good) scallops with shredded fennel, sautéed spinach and red potatoes with vanilla-rum butter sauce.

The crepe suzanne was our least interesting entree -- chicken accented with tarragon but otherwise not much flavor.

Save the splurge for dessert: decadent bananas Foster crepe; scrumptious French bread pudding with chocolate chips, bananas, caramel sauce and vanilla ice cream, or crème brlée -- standards that are likely to win over a new generation of fans.

Join the discussion

The Miami Herald is pleased to provide this opportunity to share information, experiences and observations about what's in the news. Some of the comments may be reprinted elsewhere in the site or in the newspaper. We encourage lively, open debate on the issues of the day, and ask that you refrain from profanity, hate speech, personal comments and remarks that are off point. In order to post comments, you must be a registered user of MiamiHerald.com. Your username will show along with the comments you post. Thank you for taking the time to offer your thoughts.

     Showing: Oldest first Newest first Most-recommended first Least-recommended first

@Nyx.AuthorDisplayName@ wrote on @Nyx.PostedAtTime@:

@Nyx.repliedToText@

@Nyx.replyAnswerText@

Reply to this Comment @Nyx.Recommender@ @Nyx.AbuseReporter@