The last time I visited The Shops at Pembroke Gardens, I had dinner with my grandma at nearby Century Village first and was caught in the ruthless clutches of a neighbor who forced me to eat low-salt, no-sugar-added cookies. This time, I escaped that horrifying excuse of a dessert and took a seat at Brimstone Woodfire Grill in The Shops.

Brimstone, at 14575 SW Fifth St. in Pembroke Pines, suffers from a bit of an identity crisis. The recessed bar area is separated from the restaurant, and its Asian accents suggest an ancient sake lounge fit for the samurai class. However, Wyatt Earp would also feel at home, because the walls are painted in typical Southwestern hues, and framed pictures of bulls and cows proudly hang on them. I asked the bartender if there was a reason for the split personality, and she shrugged and said something I pretended to understand about the architect Frank Lloyd Wright.

Modern jazz bebops through the speakers and distracts pleasantly from the somewhat schizophrenic decor. No elevator drivel here. Instead, expect to hear cuts from Miles Davis, Pat Metheny, George Benson and other masters of improvisation.

Sixty varieties are highlighted on the wine list, with 24 available by the glass. The bottles range from $20-$60, but there's also a special ''Captain's List'' (adding a nautical theme out of the blue) that features far pricier selections.

Brimstone closes at 10 p.m. during the week and 11 p.m. on weekends. If you're not ready to go home -- or in my case, haven't sufficiently washed down Grandma's brisket -- the Village Tavern (also at the Shops at 14555 SW Second St.) stays open until midnight during the week and 1 a.m. on weekends.

In the almost six years I've been writing this column, the Village Tavern has by far the most unique specialty drink menu I've flipped through. Relative lightweights may want to abstain from the Lucid Absinthe Drip, a French libation once banned in the United States and made legal again in 2007. Try the Violet Fields instead. It's a perfumed cocktail made with Parfait Amour (a purple liqueur with hints of Madagascar vanilla and violets), Absolute Pear Vodka, violet syrup, fresh lemon juice and garnished with an edible, organic orchid.

This nightspot looks as if it could be the brainchild of one my semi-cultured fraternity brothers. It's dimly lit with a stone fireplace, stone floors, black speckled granite bar counters, mirrored walls and bookshelves filled with a few books and rows of beer bottles.

Jasmine Sherman is behind the bar, and she's reminiscent of that free-spirited college girl too hip and independent to join a sorority. She's humble and gracious, and her initial instinct is to treat you as if you own the place.

No frat boys here, though: Laidback professionals congregate to unwind by watching sports on flat screens and chatting with friends.

But if you're looking for the uninhibited energy of a college soiree, The Pub, 237 SW 145th Terr., will not disappoint. This British bar attracts patrons of varying ages, so don't be surprised to see the young and not-so-young downing beers and shots as if they had just finished taking their last final exam.

A United Nations of Beer is on tap, and bartenders wear miniskirt kilts and black leather knee-high boots.

The music is cranked up to 11, and the doors aren't locked until midnight during the week and 2 a.m. on the weekends. A trivia contest is held every Monday night at 7:30 p.m.

I apologize if the host's questions are interrupted by sound bites from Humphrey Bogart or Errol Flynn movies. That's just my grandma's TV blasting Turner Classic Movies from across the street.

UPCOMING

Tonight at Original Fat Cats, Panic Disorder plays live. Show starts at 11 p.m. No cover.

Tuesday at the Culture Room, catch the Plain White T's with Company of Thieves and Days Difference. Doors open at 7:30 p.m; tickets $14.99.

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