Australia: Living the wild life on quiet Kangaroo Island

BY MARIBETH MELLIN

Fort Worth Star-Telegram

We'd given ourselves a few days after a cruise down under to explore Australia. Choosing a destination was downright difficult. The Barrier Reef was the obvious choice -- we're both divers -- but cyclones and deadly jellyfish were in season. One place kept coming back to mind: Kangaroo Island. How could it not be cool with such a name?

We could've spent a month on the 1,737-square-mile island off South Australia instead of just four nights. In that time we saw fairy penguins, a koala, echidnas, Heath goannas (lizards), sea lions, wallabies on parade and very few kangaroos. Not one, mind you, until our last day.

It quickly became obvious that the pace on Kangaroo Island was ultra-mellow. All the markets in the town of Kingscote shut down at 7 p.m. We scarcely had five minutes to stockpile treats for our condo. No worries. I wanted to get down to the beach. Little penguins (called fairies by some) were migrating to the island's coastline during our stay, and the KI Marine Centre offered guided tours to burrows at night.

We missed the tour but followed the guide's flashlight down steps to the sand. ''There's one,'' whispered Gary, my husband. ''Where?'' I asked repeatedly until I spotted a tiny gray and white creature standing perfectly still on the rocks. It looked like a Beanie Baby or a giant mouse. The next evening I wandered down to the boulders lining the beach and sat near the sand, hoping to see dozens of penguins waddle to shore. Guess I was a little too late.

After a few minutes I heard scurrying beneath my rock, followed by a racket of bleats and barks. One little penguin marched out from beneath the rocks, gave me the once-over and retreated. Ten minutes later the bleating began again. I apologized for invading their space and retreated. My luck was far better with the gorgeous white pelicans fed every evening at Kingscote Pier. They posed and preened like the peacocks of the sea.

The wallabies at the Kangaroo Wilderness Lodge, where we spent two nights, were even bolder. At dusk they hopped onto porches outside guest bungalows and lined up in front of the kitchen, awaiting their special wallaby pellets. We dined on smoked salmon, local lettuce, cheeses, fresh prawns and whiting, accompanied by fine Australian wines.

Kangaroo Island is a microcosm of many of Australia's most wonderful things. The Remarkable Rocks, balancing nearly 250 feet above the windblown sea, were a fine substitute for Ayers Rock. Glowing gold and red in the sun, granite boulders sculpted by Mother Nature soared high above our heads and seemed utterly magical.

Vivonne Bay, named Australia's best beach by Sydney University, lacked Bondi Beach's hip factor but offered prime waves crashing on nearly deserted sand. Wineries and honey, lavender, goat and ostrich farms dotted a landscape etched with rivers, bays and long, lonely country roads. A series of lighthouses (some with overnight accommodations) rose above rocky points.

It rained our last full day on the island, giving us a quiet morning with the wallabies before we went searching for kangaroos. Darned if one didn't jump 50 feet in front of our car, then disappear. We did a bit of off-roading, slowly bumping along dirt trails searching the tree line -- not a creature in sight. Back on the main highway, several cars were pulled to the side as a whole pack of `roos jumped about posing for photos.

Guess the airport man was right. Kangaroo Island Kangaroos (a special breed) like life on the edge of asphalt.

• Information: South Australia Tourism Commission, www.southaustralia.com and www.tourkangarooisland.com.au