Happy World Vegetarian Day, the start of Vegetarian Awareness Month.

We'll mark it here with a consideration of soy, a food formerly known as healthful that's been getting a lot of grief. Much of it is undeserved and comes via Web misinformation, including claims it causes breast cancer, developmental delays, Alzheimer's and man boobs. Yuck. And not true.

Soy may not be the cholesterol-busting miracle we thought it was a decade ago, and it is a major allergen (along with wheat, nuts, dairy, meat, eggs and seafood). But if you're not allergic to it, take a page from Asia, where soy has been a staple for thousands of years.

Asians tend to be leaner, longer-lived and healthier than we are. One difference is how they soy. They consume it in moderation; we make entire meals out of it. Megadosing on anything, whether it's soy, fries or broccoli, isn't smart.

Asians focus on whole soy -- tofu, miso and tempeh. We prefer ours broken down in products like soy milk, TVP (textured vegetable protein) and soy flour. Processing damages soy's nutritional integrity the same way it neuters whole wheat. Trading up to whole soy pays off in superlean protein, intact phytonutrients and good value.

If it's meatiness you're after, tempeh's your guy. It's dense, almost burgerlike, without tofu's jiggle, and has a pleasantly mild, fermented taste.

A 3-ounce serving averages out to 150 calories, 8 fat grams, 10 milligrams sodium and 16 protein grams, roughly half the calories and a third less fat than a BK burger, with miles less sodium and a gram more protein.

Look for organic tempeh -- brands include LightLife ($2.99, 8 ounces) and Westsoy ($2.29, 8 ounces) -- at Whole Foods and other natural food stores. Dice and add to salads, toss with veggies, noodles and peanut sauce, or use in our vegan spinach pie. There are a million ways to enjoy whole soy as part -- not all -- of a balanced diet.

Ellen Kanner writes biweekly about vegetarian concerns.

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