As Americans combat obesity and financial strain, meatless meals are becoming mainstream. Several excellent cookbooks explore the complexities of vegetarian cuisine.

Chef Maria Elia's The Modern Vegetarian (Kyle Books, $24.95) offers a vision of vegetarian cooking that is rich, silky and deeply textured.

Indian, Asian and Middle Eastern flavors inspire many of the more than 120 recipes, but each is distinct and original. Dukkah-rolled soft-boiled eggs riff on an Egyptian seasoning of chopped nuts, seeds and spices for an appetizer or light meal. Coconut-braised Chinese cabbage leaves offer a creamy, ginger-spiked alternative to your average stir-fry. And the Capri lemon pasta with peas, fava beans and asparagus is beautiful to look at. Elia's recipes are decidedly short on strict directives and on health-food store ingredients. Instead, she aims to make ordinary cooks comfortable with their own ability to coax them to their full potential.

Also worth considering:

• Short-Cut Vegan by Lorna Sass (William Morrow, $19.99)

These straightforward recipes sometimes lack in inventiveness, but they make up for it with ease of preparation, an excellent tutorial on healthful short-cuts and tips for a properly stocked pantry.

• Vegan Soul Kitchen: Fresh, Healthy, and Creative African-American Cuisine by Bryant Terry (Da Capo, $18.95 in paper)

With 150 catchy and creative recipes for dishes like succotash, zesty collards and fried green tomatoes, Terry almost makes you believe it can be done without the bacon grease.

• Babycakes by Erin McKenna (Clarkson Potter, $24)

A new bible for vegan dessert lovers from the bakery that won New York Magazine's ``Best Cupcake'' award. The book requires commitment: you'll have to track down coconut oil, evaporated cane juice, xanthan gum, special flours, agave nectar and other exotic ingredients. But the sweet payoff will benefit vegans and people who struggle with food allergies.

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