Clang. Clang. Clang. Clang clang clang clang clang.
A dancer in an elaborate steer mask twirls into the temple courtyard, tossing his head, twisting, stepping high to ripple the layered scarves of his skirted costume. Security guards motion the crowd aside, making way for cymbal players and drummers and the red-masked atsara, clowns who hand out condoms and pester festivalgoers for money. Crimson-cloaked monks watch from a wooden gallery festooned with yellow and red banners.
Thousands of devotees from villages throughout this corner of the Himalayas crowd the courtyard; others cluster on wooden steps leading to gaily-painted balconies edging the white-washed bricks of the dzong, or temple-fortress. A vast thangka - a painting depicting the life of Buddha - hangs against a three-story wall.
The crowd is dressed in its traditional best: men in tall socks and knee-length belted robes (called gho) in plaid or a dark solid; women in long, straight plaid skirts, or kira, and belted brocade jackets. For burgeoning adults, it's also an opportunity to meet a potential mate.
Like most festivals, this is as much social outting as religious rite: part pageant, part education, part heritage-retention program. For the handful of tourists like us, it's also a step into an extraordinary universe where traditions hold fast and the government measures success in a matrix of economy, literacy, democracy, culture and ecology called GNH - Gross National Happiness.
Minnette Massey of Coral Gables, a University of Miami law professor, traveled here with a group from Elderhostel. "A friend wanted to go on vacation and suggested Capri. I said I've been there; find me something exotic." Bhutan fit the bill.
We came for the gentle strangeness of it all, and the purity of a society where commercialism is a distant afterthought. Like Californians Sheri and Marty Slattery, whom we met along the way, I had visited Tibet in the early 1990s and was surprised by the Chinese influence there. "It was upsetting," said Sheri. "So I wanted to see Buddhism working in people's everyday lives."
Said Beverly Whittaker, a fellow Elderhosteler from New Jersey: "I've decided there are two kinds of people in the world: Ones who are curious and ones who aren't. I firmly believe everything has a season. You can't let things pass by."
THE THUNDER DRAGON Bhutan is clearly for the curious. Though it measures about a quarter the land size of Florida and claims less than 1 million people, its very name means strength: Land of the Thunder Dragon. Arranging a trip here isn't simple or cheap, though it has gotten easier in recent years. About 13,600 tourists visited in 2005, up 47 percent from the previous year, reports the country's tourism department; most are 40-plus, in search of cultural experiences. Visitors must be accompanied by a guide and spend a minimum of $165 per person per day in expenses via an authorized tour company; deposits must be made by wire transfer rather than credit card.
The idea: Garner hard currency (about $18 million last year) without exceeding capacity or overwhelming the local population. Large-scale hotels probably won't be allowed, says Thuji Dorji Nadik, a tourism official.
And Bhutan's season may be now. Though retail chains, fast food and billboards are unheard of here, the outside world is edging in, courtesy of progressive moves by King Jigme Singye Wangchuk, whose family monarchy was established in 1907 with nudging from the British, which directed the country's foreign affairs until the mid 1940s.
In recent years, the king has granted access to the Internet, cell service and television. Free education includes instruction in English, and even in an isolated mountain village, school girls approach to practice their language skills. The king has created a constitution that allows for his own impeachment, and in 2008, the country will hold its first national elections, formally shifting from a monarchy to a parliamentary democracy.
Bhutan is also the current darling of a jet set seeking fresh ground. Como/Uma resorts, owned by hip Euro-Asian hotelier Christine Ong, opened a boutique resort near the town of Paro in 2004, following on the heels of Aman Resorts, which opened a series of four small, upscale hotels around the country earlier that year. With the political turmoil that has plagued Nepal in recent years, much of the Himalayan trekking scene has moved to Bhutan, where 35 percent of the land is protected. A few companies have set up adventure operations for rafting and mountain biking.
CHANGING COUNTRYSIDE The land morphs from stony harshness to mystical cloud forests, lush rice fields to sprawling valleys plowed by oxen, and the startling 13,000-foot-plus peaks of the frosted Himalayas. We took in as much as 10 days could accommodate: trekking through the wooded mountains and terraced fields; temples and markets and shops and paper-making operations; cozy Paro and fast-growing Thimphu; the climb to the fabled Tiger's Nest monastery, tucked into the elbow of a cliff and now repaired after a 1998 fire. Each house we pass is in the simple, traditional style: White base, two or three stories, brightly colored wood-framed windows and balconies. We visit one, finding vegetables drying in the breezy attic, electricity in the kitchen and a TV.
We'd been concerned that we'd feel restricted, held back by the requirements of having a guide and driver at all times. We were wrong. The driver proved invaluable; car rentals aren't available, and the stomach-lurching mountains roads, though smooth, would have made for near-impossible driving on our own.
Our guide, Chimmi Dorjee, stopped willingly at almost any place we asked - even the archery contests we spotted frequently along the road. He took us to shops and temples, played billiards with us in a rare pool hall - then left us on our own when we preferred.
He played cultural interpreter, explaining that the five colors of prayer flags fluttering in the breeze represent the elements. That Bhutanese must wear traditional dress not only at festivals, but in the workplace, shopping and any public setting. How fields for archery are set at 140 yards, with 11 players on each team; some contests feature wooden bows, while others use more accurate but expensive composite bows. Archery is Bhutanese equivalent of golf, he told us - the national pastime, but an expensive one.
And for us, most importantly, the almost impenetrable mores and legends of Bhutan's Tantric Buddhism.
Like all religions, Buddhism's basic concepts are simple: "All actions have consequences. The essential idea of Buddhism is responsibility of self," as Dorjee puts it. But the legends and traditions - especially of Tantric Buddhism - are lavish and complex, designed to help the faithful focus on the enlightenment within themselves through visualization and meditation. Kaleidoscopic artwork and symbol-filled festivals are part of that process.
FESTIVALS More than scenery or architecture or shopping, it was the Buddhist celebrations we'd come to see. We'd talked of this trip for a decade, since I'd seen the photos of a friend who had come. Though religious celebrations dot the Bhutanese calendar, the major festivals are held in Paro in spring, and in Thimphu and Wangdue in fall. Each lasts several days.
Many festivals, called tsechus, celebrate the eighth century arrival of Guru Rinpoche, a great teacher, who was born of a lotus flower and flew to Bhutan on the back of a tigress. His mission: to subdue evil spirits in 13 now-holy places. He did so via his eight manifestations.
The Thimphu dances prove a repeat of those in Wangdue. Each offers a measured pace, extravagant ritual, and the clanging accompaniment of cymbals and horns that buzz in a near-constant murmur. The dances teach, commemorate, purify; watching them bestows blessings on the festivalgoer. Some are said to date from the 16th century.
CRUSHING MOB But while Wangdue feels like a county carnival, the Thimphu ceremonies take on a formal air befitting the nation's capital. Members of the royal family and the Je Khenpo, or religious chief, watch from behind the latticed windows of the dzong's balcony; hundreds of robed monks line the steps beneath. Crowds are huge - as many as 10,000 come each festival day - and normally demur Bhutanese become a crazed mob, pushing their way into the dzong in a crushing human traffic jam. The national newspaper reports that Bhutan's equivalent of Gen Xers are ignoring traditional festivals, but you can't tell it from this throng. Security is strictly enforced.
Though we've come before 8 a.m., sitting space on the courtyard's fringes is already crowded, and we tuck onto the edge, between a woven plastic mat marking a family stake-out and the corridor where the dancers will enter. Cousins and sisters and neighbors arrive, crowding onto the mat. We're tolerated, then welcomed as we share balloons and glimpses through our digital cameras - still a novelty here. When the next wave of would-be squatters tries to elbow in, our neighbors protect us.
The now-familiar dances begin: the twirling steer, the women's line dance, the gamboling monkey-like sprites tap-tap-tapping small drums. Musicians circle, dressed like Victorian Christmas drummers and pipers. Some blow horns as tall as man.
Then come the Terrifying Deities, demons magnificent in their brocade robes, huge and horrifying in grotesque masks edged in skulls. They twist and twirl, filling their wide skirts and showing off the curled toes of silk-and-hide boots. It is a passion play twining the present with what has yet to come.
Each step and gesture is weighted with meaning, but it's largely lost on us. We huddle with our new friends, laugh at the red-masked clowns, and revel in the richness of ways that all too soon may pass.
ABOUT BHUTAN * Population: Less than 800,000, though some CIA estimates put it as high as 2.3 million * Size: 14,824 square miles * Bordered by: India, China (Tibet) * History: Squabbling clans were united in the 16th century by the monk who brought Buddhism to the country. Following his death the country returned to instability. In 1907, at the urging of the British, a hereditary monarchy was established. British influence ended in 1947. * Government: King Jigme Singye Wangchuk is a reformer who is bringing a constitution, a free press and parliamentary democracy to the nation; the first general election is slated for 2008. Prior to the elections, the king, 50, has announced he will abdicate to his son. * Royal family: The king has four wives. Crown Prince Jigme Khesar Namgyal Wangchuck, 25, is slated to take over in 2008. * Chief industries: Hydropower, which is exported to India; agriculture; tourism * Per capita income: About $400 per year * Religion: Tantric form of Mahayana Buddhism * Capital: Thimphu, though the airport is in Paro * Allies: Its most important relationship is with India, which provides military security
Sources: Bhutanese officials, official Bhutan website www.tourism.gov.bt; CIA World Factbook
VISITING BHUTAN * Getting there: The only airline serving Bhutan is Druk Air, www.drukair.com.bt, via Bangkok, New Delhi, Calcutta, Bodghaya, Dacca and Kathmandu. * When to go: For cultural travelers, the festivals are the reason to visit; you should book six months to a year in advance. The biggest festivals are in Paro and Thimphu; celebrations in the smaller towns of Wangdue (also called Wangdi) and Bumthang are also popular. Dates vary slightly from year to year; the 2006 Wangdue tsechu runs Sept. 30-Oct. 2; the Thimphu fest runs Oct. 2-4. In 2007, tentative festival dates are Feb. 21-28 for Punahka, March 29-April 2 for Paro, Sept. 20-22 for Wangdue, Sept. 21-23 for Thimphu, Oct. 26-28 and Nov. 24-26 in Bumthang. Many others occur around the country. In 2008, the Crown Prince is due to be crowned, and the nation will hold centennial celebrations; the schedule has yet to be released. * How to visit: Visitors must make arrangements through an authorized Bhutan travel agent, who will handle your visas. Trips and treks include transportation within the country; wandering on your own is not allowed. Companies based in the United States may be able to accept credit cards for Bhutan trips, but if you book directly with a Bhutanese company you will be required to wire money to a government-monitored account. * Costs: The Bhutan government requires that each visitor spend a minimum of $200 per day in high season, $165 in low season (January, February, June, July, August and December). This goes toward lodging, meals, guide services and includes a stiff government fee. Groups of less than three are subject to surcharges. Upscale companies may charge more. * Finding a tour: A number of U.S.-based companies offer guided trips; they include Geographic Expeditions (800-777-8183; www.geoex.com); Cross Cultural Journeys (800-353-2276; www.crossculturaljourneys.com); Mountain Travel Sobek (888-687-6235; www.mt sobek.com); Overseas Adventure Travel (800-493-6824; www.oattravel.com) and Elderhostel (800-454-5768; www.elder hostel.com.) * On your own: We preferred traveling privately and booked directly with Bhutan Yak Adventure Travel (www.tourism-bhutan.com), which arranged our excellent guide, Chimmi Dorjee (chimmi1003@hotmail.com), car and driver, all hotels and permits, and our mountain trek. We were thoroughly satisfied. Etho Metho (www.ethometho.com) also gets high marks from travelers. Trekkers may prefer a trekking specialist. To find other licensed tour companies and agents, see www.tourism.gov.bt. * Tip: Bring Dramamine for the winding roads, ear plugs for Thimphu (the dogs bark nonstop) and a fluffy camp pillow.
FOOD AND LODGING All hotels in which we stayed were clean, reasonably comfortable and friendly. Meals were often served buffet or family style with a wide-enough range to suit most palettes. * Upscale: Two five-star hotel companies offer top-of-the-line accommodations and service with all-inclusive programs. * Amankora, part of the Aman Resorts group famed for service and spectacular lodgings, has a series of four boutique hotels, in Paro, Thimphu, Punakha and Gangtey. Packages are all-inclusive and include lodging, all meals, airport transfers, all activities and first-rate guiding and service. Rates from about $1,300 per night, double, including tax and service. www.aman resorts.com; 800-477-9180 or (011-975) 827-2333. * Uma Paro, owned by hip Euro-Asian hotelier Christina Ong, has hosted Donna Karan and Cameron Diaz at its Bhutan resort, which sits on 38 acres overlooking Paro valley, a short drive from the airport. Walks, camping treks, mountain biking and cultural tours are offered. Rates from $250 per room plus 20 percent tax and fees, $20 visa and $55-$65 (depending on the season) per person per day government royalty. (011-975) 827-1597; http;//uma.como.bz.
