The Qinghai-Tibet train linking China with Lhasa via Golmud opened in July 2006. Trips originate in the tourist-draw cities of Beijing, Shanghai, Xian, Chengdu and Guangzhou.
Most popular is likely the Beijing-Lhasa run, which lasts 47 hours and costs about $160 in a soft-sleeper shared with three others. This train books quickly, and you may have better luck flying to Lhasa and taking the train back to Beijing.
Tickets: You must book these through a travel agent, and well in advance. Many authorized agents (located via the web) can handle this by e-mail. We used CITS (www.citsusa.com) and had a good experience. Note that tickets generally are delivered in China about three days before your rail trip.
Permits: A Tibet permit is required along with your Chinese visa. Before the current protest, the travel agent selling you the train ticket could arrange this; the future scenario isn't clear. Costs vary; if you're taking the train from Beijing, your Tibet visa will likely cost about $100, according to the Qinghai-Tibet Train's official website.
Facilities: Down the
hall. Adequate wash basins but no showers.
Food: Food on board is reasonably priced and tasty, though there's not much variety. Carts come through the train fre quently selling snacks and fruit, and noodle bowls and other snacks are readily available from carts at larger stations. Boiling-hot water is available through a dispenser in the wash area throughout the trip.
Things to bring:
• Soap and towel
• Large cup for noodles; hot water readily available
• Snacks; some are available on board, but you may want your own
• Drinking water; also available on board, but start with a good supply to cut costs
• Toilet paper; the onboard supply runs out quickly
Information: www.chinatibettrain.com
-- JANE WOOLDRIDGE
