There's been a new smoky scent in the air over Homestead since November, when LJ's Backstage Café opened in the Airport Plaza Arcade across from Air Reserve Park.

The setting is fitting for owners Umphrey and Lisa Jackson, who were Army brats when they met at the American high school in Nürnberg, Germany, in 1976. Married 28 years, they have six children and 10 grandkids.

Lisa was born in South Korea to a Korean mother and American father. An American soldier and his wife adopted her from a Korean orphanage and raised her mainly at Homestead Air Force Base.

Born near Birmingham, Umphrey was given a first name that has been passed down in his family for generations. The story goes that it derives from his great-great-great grandparents' shouts of ''I'm free!'' when they crossed a river into Ohio to escape slavery.

A songwriter, poet and producer, Umphrey traveled for 10 years doing staging and lighting. He was always into barbecue on the road. Lisa, better known as Mama J, has 20 years of experience in food service.

The couple began catering nine years ago. In 2006 they started making barbecue at Cauley Square and developed such a following that they moved to the new location. The spacious place is no-frills, with the focus on the brisket, ribs and chicken barbecued on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays.

Many customers come just for the baby-back ribs -- marinated in a dry rub of Cajun seasonings, then slow-smoked for six or more hours.

Or have the pulled pork sandwich made from shredded rib meat. Sides include mashed potatoes, mac and cheese, collard greens, corn, baked beans and coleslaw.

The pizza oven is fired up each morning to bake the cinnamon raisin biscuits served with eggs, bacon and grits for breakfast. For lunch and dinner, hot sandwiches (fried chicken, grilled steak, fried tilapia) are offered, along with salads. Fried wings are popular, too, with sweet and spicy or lemon pepper dips.

There are budget-priced dinners every day. Favorites include meatloaf, smothered pork chops and pot roast. If you have room for dessert, Mama J's homemade peach cobbler is hard to resist.

On Sundays, radio station WDNA-FM (88.9) sponsors live blues with barbecue next door.

Linda Bladholm's latest book is Latin and Caribbean Grocery Stores Demystified.

Place: LJ's Backstage Café.

Address: 12783 SW 280th St., Homestead (concert hall at 12777 SW 280th St.).

Contact: 305-257-1006, 786-255-1642, www.ljsbackstagecafe.com.

Hours: 7 a.m.-9 p.m. Monday-Friday, 9 a.m.-9 p.m. Saturday and Sunday.

Prices: Breakfast $2.50-$4.99, sandwiches $4.50-$7.50, ribs $6.99-$25.

FYI: Barbecue Friday, Saturday and Sunday only. Catering available.

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