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A FORK ON THE ROAD

Saffron candy and yogurt soda at Nu Taste

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IF YOU GO

Place: Nu Taste Imported Specialty Foods.

Address: 7817 W. Sunrise Blvd., Plantation.

Contact: 954-382-4026, www.nutaste.com.

Hours: 11 a.m.-7 p.m. Monday-Friday, 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Saturday and Sunday.

Prices: From $1 for flavored waters to $50 for tea sets with small glasses.

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lbladholm@MiamiHerald.com

Persian food is as complex as those intricate flying carpets of legend, mingling threads from the Middle East and India. I first encountered it at Southern Illinois University at parties hosted by Iranian students who would serve up platters of saffron rice and sweet and sour stews in mysterious sauces. Years later, on a trip to India, I renewed my acquaintance at Irani restaurants in Mumbai.

An Iranian community of about 10,000 is scattered throughout South Florida. When Now-Ruz, the Persian New Year, arrives in March, they fill whole parks to celebrate over food. Nothing is dearer to a Persian than sharing food -- and lots of it.

All the key ingredients can be found at Nu Taste Imported Specialty Foods in Plantation, owned by Siroos Asbaghi and his wife, Vivian, who also have the Caspian Grill next door. Restaurant customers often stop by to pick up yogurt soda, rock candy with saffron (good for sweetening chai), fruit leather or packets of spices. Most products are imported from Tehrangelos, the nickname for the large Persian community in Los Angeles.

Nu Taste's shelves are also packed with bags of melon seeds, pitted prunes, dried mulberries (munch like raisins), dried limes (for adding sourness to stews), dates, roasted almonds and whole grains. There are bottles of torshi (chopped mixed pickle), khoresht (stew sauces), pomegranate molasses (great for brushing on grilled chicken) and scented waters from Lebanon infused with peppermint, thyme, lavender, cinnamon, cardamom or dill to aid digestion or ease a tummy ache.

Other finds include small sour grapes in brine (added to fruit and meat stews), dried herb mixtures for flavoring rice, paper-thin lavash bread, pistachio nougat, dried rose buds and kashk (whey) used in soups. Fragrant quinces and other fruits are available in season.

The Asbaghis also carry their own line of Sheer Bliss ice cream (also available at some Publix supermarkets) in flavors like pomegranate with tiny dark chocolate chips, coffee, vanilla, and Freedom (vanilla with blueberry and pomegranate swirl) -- all good with a splash of rosewater and a scoop of sour cherries in syrup. Noosheh Jan! (May it feed your soul)!

Linda Bladholm's latest book is Latin and Caribbean Grocery Stores Demystified.

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