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A FORK ON THE ROAD

Argentine sells grass-fed beef from Uruguay

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IF YOU GO

Place: Gaucho Ranch Natural Grass-Fed Beef.

Address: 7251 NE Second Ave., Loft 113, Miami.

Contact: 305-751-0775, www.gauchoranch.com.

Hours: 9 a.m.-6 p.m. Monday-Friday.

Prices: Pack of 4 steaks $36-$45, 1 whole cut tenderloin $84, 1 (3- to 4-pound) package ground beef $25.

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lbladholm@MiamiHerald.com

Pablo Liberato is the exclusive U.S. importer of grass-fed Gaucho Ranch beef from Uruguay. The tall Argentine with striking blue-green eyes often hosts Friday night barbecues at his Northeast Miami warehouse to showcase the meat. Much leaner and beefier tasting than the corn-fed cuts we're used to, it needs just a sprinkle of salt before grilling over a low fire (high heat would toughen it).

The cattle are raised on La Escalera Ranch in the Pando-Canelones region of Uruguay on a grassland reserve near Montevideo. Liberato met the ranch owner, Edwardo Urgal, at a cocktail party while living in New York in the early '90s, and they were soon talking about bringing the beef to this country.

Nestled between Argentina and Brazil, small Uruguay has strict laws protecting its Hereford cattle, which yield some of the best beef in the world. Gauchos are the caretakers of their herds and live close to the land, moving the cattle between grassy pastures so they can graze freely on prairie grass, alfalfa and clover.

Liberato, 44, has had many careers since studying architecture in Buenos Aires (both his parents were architects). He was a semi-pro tennis player until an injury sidelined him. He helped open a restaurant in Punta del Este, Uruguay, and in 1993 headed for Zurich with the Swiss-Brazilian woman who managed the place.

They stopped in Miami, where they married, and Liberato decided to stay, finding work in film production while she went on her way. (They're still friends.) He helped open a series of Miami restaurants including Novocento, and did marketing for a girlfriend's real estate company.

After several stressful years, he wanted to slow down and begin eating more healthfully. He followed up with the ranch owner, and began selling grass-fed beef through his company, Natura Foods, directly to consumers as well as to South Florida restaurants. Packed and wet-aged in vacuum-sealed boxes, the meat is never frozen.

A few years ago, Liberato met Don Julio, a 75-year-old Uruguayan who caters traditional South American meat fests and pitches in with the Friday night showcases. They are called asado es un viaje de ida y vuelta (''asado is a journey of going and coming'') because guests come to the grill for a few bites, then go their way, always coming back for more.

Linda Bladholm's latest book is Latin and Caribbean Grocery Stores Demystified.

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