You don't need the conical clay pot called a tagine to make the Moroccan braise of the same name -- a deep sauté pan will do. But you do need fresh spices.

Properly stored in airtight containers, away from light and heat (never above the stove), ground spices have a shelf life of six months to a year. After that, their flavor and aroma fades.

Give your spices the sniff test to see if they're still fresh; if they're not strongly scented, toss them in the trash. Purchase replacements in the smallest quantities you can find to avoid future waste.

Most spices are dried seeds, stems, pods, berries, bark, roots, buds or fruits. Their flavors come from volatile oils that are released on grinding, so whole spices last much longer.

Whole nutmeg or cinnamon can be grated with a fine, hand-held grater. Small seeds like cumin, coriander, caraway and fennel can be ground in a coffee grinder reserved for that purpose. When you're done, clean the grinder by running some fresh bread through it.

This week's Sunday supper, Chicken Tagine With Apricots and Almonds, will reward your efforts with wonderful flavor.

Carole Kotkin is manager of the Ocean Reef Club cooking school.

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