Good Karma (1782 Prospector Ave., 435-658-0958, www.goodkarmarestaurants.com) is a locals hangout, one of those best-kept secrets that seems to be slowly getting around. Hefty portions of Indian and Persian food are sent out to the small, simple dining room; dishes such as the char fasl platter for $22 are ideal for sharing, because there's enough tandoori lamb, saffron-kissed chicken and veggies here to feed two for sure. Entrees come with a choice of basmati or saffron rice or minted couscous; the latter is delicious and also contains almonds. The baklava is a must, as the sweet service staff will tell you.

Grappa (151 Main St., 435-645-0636, www.grapparestaurant.com) has the best fireplace in a restaurant in town, and that's the table to snag. But no matter where you sit in this charming Italian cafe, with its exposed brick and trompe l'oeil trees, the atmosphere is warm and welcoming. The menu is innovative, Italian classics with a twist, such as duck confit ''carbonara'' and grilled rack of lamb served with root vegetables fashioned into a lasagna. The grappa roster is a good one for fans of the Italian brandy made from pressed-grape residue.

Jean Louis Restaurant & Bar (136 Heber Ave., 435-200-0260, www.jeanlouisrestaurant.com) could be super-snooty, but the menu, while pricey (almost all of the entrees are more than $30), surprises by being made up of straightforward fare that's done exceptionally well. Focused primarily on French and Italian foods, the dishes include things such as North American elk loin with boysenberry sauce and grilled Atlantic salmon sided by a lemon risotto. But it's all textbook perfect and served in the elegant space by highly competent staffers. The chocolate souffle is the way to finish.

Lookout Cabin (on Lookout Peak at the top of Golden Eagle and Short Cut chairlifts, The Canyons) is a reasonably priced sit-down option for an on-mountain lunch. The seared ahi tuna roll appetizer is tasty and big enough to share, and the excellent house-made soups are meal-sized. The views from the front door of the Wasatch Mountains are among the best around.

The Mariposa (7600 Royal St., in the Silver Lake Lodge, 435-645-6715, www.deervalley.com) should clone itself and then be plunked down in every city -- the service is spot-on, the food is amazing, and the dicor is lovely and romantic but will fade pleasantly into the background. The tasting menu with paired wines (especially if you aren't driving) is the way to go, to give yourself a chance to get the full range of the kitchen here, but if you aren't up for that much food or time commitment, the wild mushroom beggar's purse will have you begging for more beaujolais reduction, and the sablefish Mariposa, with its honey-tamari glaze, is unbelievably good. Also noteworthy: They'll do the tasting all-vegetarian.

Seafood Buffet (1375 Deer Valley Drive, 435-645-6632, www.deervalley.com) puts the ''buff'' in buffet by featuring the heavy hitters that most all-you-can-eat spreads shy away from -- namely, fish and shellfish and plenty of it, such as raw oysters, king and Dungeness crab, peel-and-eat tiger shrimp, sashimi and sushi and house-smoked salmon. But a savvy local warned us wisely to hit the cooked fish first, and those dishes were indeed the best: yellowfin tuna, bass and halibut, all seared to order with complementary sauces. A carving station, hot and cold appetizers and salads and a dozen desserts that included a heavenly bread pudding with caramel sauce and a bottomless bowl of freshly whipped cream, rounded out a feeding frenzy that has made this one of the most crowded eateries.

Shabu (333 Main St., 435-645-7253, www.shabupc.com) gets some help from the customers in the final product by having you help cook the meal at the table. Named for shabu shabu, the Japanese hot-pot style of cooking, this stylish eatery with its black-and-white table treatments and dark pumpkin walls offers the option of choosing broths and meats you cook at the table, or regular entrees. If you go for entrees, the miso-glazed black cod is a crispy, sweet delight.

Yuki Arashi (586 Main St., 435-649-6293, www.yukiarashi.com) serves sushi and French-influenced Asian tapas, which means you can eat as little or as much as you like from the lengthy and appealing menu -- the mussel shooters with quail egg and ponzu, the hamachi carpaccio and the lamb ''lollipops'' are all recommended though. There are several ways to dine -- the snazzy sushi bar, which has fun people-watching and can be seen from the street but can get a bit noisy; an intimate booth; or the cool take on a tatami room, with a raised wooden bench for large groups or just two, separated by curtains. Lunch is usually less crowded.

Zoom (660 Main St., 435-649-9108, www.zoomparkcity.com) joins a family of Sundance-owned eateries, which makes sense for the home of the famous film festival. Rustic and funky, the place is split in two inside the old Union Pacific railroad depot, with the exposition kitchen on one side and a more casual eating space and bar on the other. The menu is upscale comfort food: buffalo osso buco, buttermilk mashed potatoes, ribs, five-cheese ravioli. As with most Park City downtown joints, lunch is cheaper and less crazy.

ENJOY:Alpine Coaster (at Park City Mountain Resort, 800-222-7275, www.parkcitymountain.com). The first time, you'll hit the brake once or twice on this alpine slide because you won't trust that the little car won't go flying off. The next time, just let go. This thing is just too much fun and very fast, a way to let go after a day of gripping those muscles on the slopes and instead scream down the mountain, no holds barred. Kids of all ages -- I watched a man and his two grandkids roar past overhead -- enjoy the 4,000-foot drop, and the lift up is a nice, slow way to check out the Wasatch mountains. Cost: $20 for adults per ride, $7 kids over 3 and under 54 inches.

Kimball Art Center (638 Park Ave., 435-649-8882, www.kimball-art.org). The nonprofit community arts center offers a well-lighted, warehouse-size space to show exhibitions in three galleries, many from Utah artists. Coming up: works from the Chicano-heavy collection of Cheech Marin, March 21-May 3. Free admission, closed Tuesdays.

Ski Butlers (877-754-7754, www.skibutlers.com) makes it possible to avoid or cut down on fees for extra or overweight luggage by meeting you at your lodging with equipment in hand. I brought my custom-fitted boots, and the helpful Ski Butlers folks simply met me at the ski valet at the hotel, fit the boots to the skis I had picked out ahead online, made some adjustments, and I was good to go. They're open 7 a.m.-9 p.m. daily, and costs start at $25 a day for sport and junior performance packages and go to $59 a day for a high-performance plus package. Bonus: Once your preferences and info are in the system, they have it permanently, and in addition to multiple Utah locations they offer services in Colorado, Wyoming and California ski areas.

Gorgoza Park Tubing Hill (Gorgoza Park, 3863 W. Kilby Road, run by Park City Mountain Resort, 435-658-2648, www.parkcitymountain.com/winter/activities/tubing--at--gorgoza/index.html). The lift-served tubing at Gorgoza Hill hits five tube lanes, three for novice tubers and four for those who want to let `er rip. Tubes provided. There's also a fort play area for the under-6 set. Cost: tubing ages 3-6, $3 for 1 ride, $10 for 2 hours, $15 for 4 hours; ages 7 and up, $8 for 1 ride, $20 for 2 hours, $29 for 4 hours. Fort Frosty $6 or free with tubing ticket.

White Pine Touring (1790 Bonanza Drive, 435-649-8710, www.whitepinetouring.com) can hook you up with the equipment to go cross country skiing, snowshoeing, downhill skiing, skating, you name it -- either rentals or to buy, and they can set you up with info on where to go or get you a guide. They also run the Nordic Center at Park Avenue and Thaynes Canyon Drive (435-649-6249), which offers 3K, 5K and 10K loops.

MORE INFO: www.parkcityinfo.com

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