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COLORADO

Telluride's the West's best-kept ski secret

GOING TO TELLURIDE

Getting there: Telluride is a 330-mile drive from Denver via Interstate 70. You can fly into Telluride Regional Airport from Denver, Chicago, Dallas, Houston, Salt Lake City, Newark, Atlanta and Los Angeles. You also can fly into Montrose Regional Airport (MTJ), 68 miles from Telluride, from those cities as well as from Phoenix. Telluride airport recently underwent a $50 million safety-based renovation that included extending the runway by 200 feet.

Getting around: Telluride residents will tell you that their hometown is pedestrian friendly and you don't need a car once you're there. From the Telluride or Montrose airport, catch a ride with Mountain Limo (www.mountain-limo.com, 888-546-6894) or Telluride Express (www.tellurideexpress.com, 888-212-8294, $101.76 round trip). Once in town, the free Galloping Goose bus does a town loop every 15 minutes (www.telluride-co.gov).

Skiing: The resort opens on Thanksgiving day (Nov. 26) and is scheduled to operate to April 4; 9 a.m.-4 p.m. daily. More info: 970-728-6900 or http://tellurideskiresort.com. Lift tickets start at $92. Must-do run: From the Revelation Lift, start at the blue See Forever and link it off a number of runs down into the Town of Telluride (possibilities include Plunge, Lookout, Coonskin and Spiral Stairs). That will give you an amazing (and rare) 3,845 vertical feet in one run. Hang onto those quads.

Information: Telluride Tourism Board, http://visittelluride.com/.

WHERE TO STAY

The Hotel Telluride (199 N. Cornet St., 866-468-3501, www.thehoteltelluride.com) sits three blocks from the center of town and has free Wi-Fi, in-room microwaves and mini-fridges. Peak season rates run about $239-$309, including buffet breakfast.

The Inn at Lost Creek (119 Lost Creek Lane, 970-728-5678, www.innatlostcreek.com) is a good family spot; the studios are on the smaller side, but the two-bedroom units have dining-room tables, full-size kitchens, an extra bed and washer/dryer. Rates start at $469 for a one-bedroom and $569 for a two-bedroom unit at the height of ski season.

Lumie`re (118 Lost Creek Lane, 866-530-9466, www.lumierehotels.com) is a ski-in/ski-out, boutique hotel in the heart of Mountain Village with studio suites with kitchenettes and one king or queen, as well as one- to three-bedroom ``residences'' with full kitchens. Studio rates start at $369.

WHERE TO EAT

Baked in Telluride (127 S. Fir St., 970-728-4775, www.bakedintelluride.com) has been the go-to spot for more than 30 years for coffee drinks and breakfast baked goods. At lunch and dinner, switch to thick-crust pizza and a local beer. Entrees $9-$12.

The Cantina at Las Montanas (100 W. Colorado Ave., 970-728-5114) is perfect for people-watching and apre`s-ski, with its huge windows and corner spot on the main drag. The chorizo corn dogs and sweet-potato steak fries with jalapeño blue cheese dip will kill you, but in a good way.

Honga's Lotus Petal (135 E. Colorado Ave., 970-728- 5134, www.hongaslotuspetal.com) makes creative sushi rolls as well as savvy versions of pan-Asian favorites such as pad Thai. Rolls $7-$12.

221 South Oak (221 S. Oak St., 970-728-9507, www.221SouthOak.com) reopens in mid--December. It serves up a spectacular New Orleans-style Sunday brunch, as well as a regular menu of innovative fare that pulls from French, Creole and California cuisines. Entrees $27-$49.

-- KYLE WAGNER

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The Denver Post

Raise your hand if you've never skied Telluride.

You're certainly not alone. Chances are you've never even visited Telluride, and you're not alone there either.

To the locals, that's one of the many reasons it's so great to be among the slightly fewer than 2,400 people living in this former silver mining town tucked against the San Juan Mountains in southwestern Colorado.

``It's not one of the drop-in places,'' says Alicia Nogueira, who moved to Telluride 18 years ago from San Francisco. ``You have to plan to come here, and that brings people with a different purpose. They really want to be here, as opposed to, `Oh, I'm here because that other place was full.' ''

That's what Telluride Ski Resort founder Joe Zoline was banking on when he put in the first ski lift in 1972.

Joe Morita bought it from Zoline in 1999, and three years later doubled the skiable terrain by adding Prospect Bowl. A private investment group took over in 2003 and added Black Iron Bowl in 2007 and Revelation Bowl last year. Now the ski area sports more than 2,000 skiable acres and, at 13,150 feet, has the highest skiable terrain in the United States that you can hike (its highest lift-served skiable terrain sits at 12,570 feet).

Plus the area has some of the most sought-after terrain. Freeskiers from all over the world come to practice for World Cup events and compete in the qualifiers held here annually.

QUIRKY APPEAL

But for the most part, the resort, like the town, has retained its quirky character -- even as celebrities (Tom Cruise and Katie Holmes, makeup mogul Bobbi Brown, diplomat Richard Holbrooke and Ralph Lauren with his mega-ranch up the road) followed the hippies who followed the miners in discovering Telluride's isolated charms.

Thrown into the mix is an ever-increasing number of festivals. They include the world-famous Telluride Bluegrass Festival, the Telluride Film Festival, the Blues and Brews and the Mountainfilm Fest. It reached a point in 1991 that a ``Nothing Festival'' was created as a half-hearted protest.

Nogueira considers herself to be more of a hippie type. She owns Bali Dog, a shop that sells hand painted yoga pants from Brazil. In San Francisco, she had been a computer-graphic artist but also a yoga instructor. She was looking for a calmer way of life.

Nogueira and her daughter, Olivia Nogueira-Wheaton, 12, explore Telluride together, reveling in the outdoor activities of a town nestled in a box canyon and carved by a glacier.

``We go snowshoeing in the full moon on the valley floor,'' Nogueira says.

A self-described ``laid-back skier,'' Nogueira says she seeks out the gentler runs. She likes Bushwacker, an easier black-diamond run off the Plunge Lift. It's steep, groomed every few days, and ideal for strong intermediates who want to push themselves.

``The new terrain is fantastic,'' Nogueira says, referring to the runs on Prospect Bowl. ``I love Gold Hill, which has these stunning views, and it's wide-open and steep.''

This year, there's actually more to love, because the resort added another four chutes on the double-black Gold Hill. With the addition of Chutes 2-5, that means Chutes 1 through 10 are now open to the public in an area avalanche-controlled by two World War II 105mm howitzers.

The new terrain drops 1,600 vertical feet into Prospect Basin (Chute 1 is right off Revelation Lift, while chutes 2-10 require hiking), and has a variety of features -- including couloirs, rocks, faces and chutes -- all above treeline.

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