More than $20 million was poured into each vessel; children's areas were eliminated, the spa expanded, a martini bar added, artwork by Roy Lichtenstein and Donald Sultan hung on the walls. Decor is traditional yet cozy; public spaces feature fresh flowers and non-working fireplaces. The dress code is casual but smart; no tux required.

Though one expert described Azamara as ''an intimate version of Celebrity,'' the ambience on its ships is decidely lower key. Think bigger library, less disco. Cabaret-style shows and vocal performances are held in a lounge that feels like a hotel piano bar rather than in a theater. In other spaces, guests may sip cocktails while a pianist tickles the keys of the grand piano, or in the Prime C specialty restaurant, enjoy a harpist as they nibble on foie gras and osso bucco.

Oh yes, specialty restaurants. Azamara's identical ships, Journey and Quest, each feature two: Prime C, where gourmet preparations designed by acclaimed chef Jacques Van Staden (who now works in-house for Azamara and Celebrity) include inventive dishes of steak and seafood, and Aqualina, with a Mediterranean menu. Both are included in the cruise fare, along with dining in the main restaurant and the casual buffet. Dining is served on a come-as-want basis.

Stateroom amenities are a step above contemporary ships -- think bottled water, fresh flowers, Elemis toiletries. Each cabin comes with a butler who rolls the tea cart around in the afternoons, per request; otherwise, his role seems to be that of a regular cruise steward, say those who have sailed with the line. Guests in suites get more specialized service, more space -- and larger bathrooms. (Bathrooms in standard cabins are snug.)

Itineraries range from seven to 24 nights, sometimes including multiple nights in popular ports, with destinations from Asia to the Caribbean. A 14-day Mediterranean route from Istanbul drew Sue Ervin, a South Florida development officer, onboard last summer.

One of her favorite features: Crew members went on all ship-arranged excursions. ``You got to know the crew. You knew the guy who did the seating in the dining room, and he made sure you got to sit with people you knew and liked. But it was still very professional. I would rate it very highly.''

Though Azamara president Dan Hanrahan describes the age range as ''50-plus,'' that's sometimes more plus than 50, say Ervin and other cruisers. ''It's somebody who is an experienced traveler, looking more for the destination,'' says Hanrahan.

CELEBRITY CRUISES

Azamara's big sister, Celebrity, now 20 years old, is known for its cuisine. It's newest ship, Solstice, launched last fall, boasts four specialty restaurants -- one specifically for passengers who book spa-class cabins, bistro -- and a spectacular Old Hollywood-style, two-level main dining room with a massive wine tower.

Nearly everything about the 2,800-passenger Solstice has won raves, from the grass lawn on the top deck, to the frosty -- literally -- martini bar, glass-blowing show, shagadelic disco, wine-tasting room, a capella singers, oversized lime-color wingback chairs in the coffee bar, art installations and large children's area. Where else can you sit in a two-story lofted library and look out over a living tree suspended in a soaring atrium?

''I think it is the finest ship I have been on,'' says CruiseCenter.com's Baker.

All these amenities come with a price: Size. With traditional cruise features -- formal nights and set seatings in the main dining room -- and a capacity of 2,800 passengers at double occupancy, can a ship really provide premium service?

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