The debate points to one of cruising's enduring and most maddening truths: It's not just the cruise line that shapes your experience, but the particular ship. After all, some newer contemporary ships offer butler service, a suites-only pool and concierge lounges.

That's where websites like CruiseCritic.com, blogs like USA Today's Cruise Log, online forums like the one at MiamiHerald.com/cruises, and experienced travel agents come in.

''The differences between the ships are so great,'' says Stewart Chiron, a cruise expert and broker. ``It's more complicated than just buying an airline ticket from Miami to L.A.''

OCEANIA CRUISES

Widely hailed for its superior dining and country-club ambience -- you'll find no formal nights on board -- Oceania Cruises has three identical ships, Insignia, Regatta and Nautica, each carrying about 700 passengers. Though the line is 6 years old, the ships are frequently refreshed and feel bright, almost new.

These boutique vessels feel like European country-house hotels at sea, with wood paneling and trims, rich golden drapes, carpets woven with Oriental patterns, color palettes favoring rose and royal blue. The result is decidedly upscale -- but not stuffy, says Cruise Critic's Brown.

''The little tweaks and touches are first-rate, things like Balinese beds on the sun deck,'' she says. Still, she adds, ``You almost don't remember the ship itself because the service is so fantastic and it's so much fun to be on board. There's great camaraderie.''

That's the idea, says Del Rio. 'Our ships aren't the `most' of anything. They offer a combination of warmth, service levels and intriguing itineraries.'' Those include sailings lasting from 10 to 40 days to ports including Egypt, India, Vietnam, Europe, Australia, Latin America and Caribbean mainstays including Key West. Itineraries sometimes call for more than a single night in a popular port -- a hit with cruisers.

Dining is a focal point -- and with the exception of wines, all meals are included in the base cruise fare. Menus here were crafted by super chef Jacques Pepin, with open seating in the main dining room (think blue corn-crusted duck appetizer and jumbo scallops in papillote) and alternative venues: the 90-seat Toscana, with an Italian menu; the clubby, 96-seat Polo Grill, with first-rate steaks; plus casual Tapas on the Terrace and Waves.

Discounts are common on Oceania; each winter the line typically offers 2-for-1 cruise fares and free airfare even to foreign destinations for the coming year. Two new ships, slated for delivery in 2010 and 2011, will carry as many as 1,252 passengers, double occupancy.

The cuisine won praise from Miami banker Jose Valdes-Fauli, who usually sails on luxury lines but chose Oceania for its Greek Isles itinerary. ''The food was very good,'' he said of his trip last summer, though he was less impressed with the service. And the average age was well above his own mid-50s. Even in July, he said, ``We were the youngest people on the ship.''

Del Rio, Oceania's president, makes no apologies. ``We're not ashamed. We know who are target market is. The Geritol crowd is the largest single group in the U.S., with the most discretionary income. If you're under 40 and you come on our ship, it must be a mistake.''

AZAMARA CRUISES

This sister company to Celebrity Cruises was created less than two years ago, when a corporate transaction brought a pair of 700-passenger ships to the company. Like the Oceania ships, these vessels once belonged to defunct Renaissance Cruises, and the layout of these and Oceania's ships are nearly identical.

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