First up was the massage. I climbed up on the (heated) table and told my therapist I'd had a tough workout. So she concentrated her considerable efforts where I needed them most, upping the pressure when I requested it. The aromatherapy oils she used I detected lavender, cloves and who knows what else helped me relax even more, as did the many hot towels she draped across me as she worked. In an hour, Nicole had ironed out shoulder knots and a lower-back ache I'd considered permanent residents of my body.

Normally I like spa treatments that don't involve talking. But when I met the aesthetician who would do my facial, I wanted information. Her skin was simply magnificent and she's got 20 years on me. Barbara worked for an hour, steaming, cleaning, masking, massaging, assuring me I was really in fine shape, but yes, there were a few little things I could be doing.

Skin plumped and glowing, it was off to a manicure in the salon, which had the atmosphere of a slumber party. We'd landed in the midst of a half-dozen local women getting gorgeous for a big night out, and their festive mood was infectious. The half-day ended with a makeup lesson. Our teachers were paragons of patience, as two women peered over the shoulder of a friend, declaring that no, that eye shadow shade just wasn't doing quite what it should. (To my surprise, there was no pressure to buy products; what the therapists recommend is discreetly placed in a basket at the front desk, where you are free to ignore it or splurge madly.)

Our only complaint was that we tried to cram too much into our half-day. We got off schedule when some of our services ran a bit overtime, and couldn't have the leisurely poolside lunch or soak in the tempting spa tub we'd hoped for. Lesson learned for our next visit.

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