One excursion, however, had been more than enough for me, what with the Caribbean just sitting there. After putting Room 505 back in order, I spent the rest of Saturday on the beach, hunkered under a palapa, marveling at how one strip of surf could have so many shades of blue and watching a hulking lifeguard swat roving peddlers away like horseflies. But mostly I wondered when my vaguely memorable BFFs from the night before, who had pleaded with me to join them in a game of aqua-volleyball, would leave the pool so I could sneak back to my room.

I could have killed a day dozing by the sea, hiding from kindhearted souls who just wanted to show me a good time. And in the end, that's just what I did.

DETAILS

Golden Parnassus Resort, Kukulcan Blvd., San Miguelito, (011-52-998) 848-7550 or 800-233-51-62; www.goldencancun.com.

BEST FOR: Anyone who's freaked out by teeming crowds, screaming kids and gleaming resorts where you get lost trying to find the breakfast room.

WHAT WAS INCLUDED: Three nights' lodging; airport transfers; unlimited drinks; three meals a day, including room service and 24-7 snack bar; gratuities; in-room safe; indoor mini-golf; activities such as beach and pool volleyball, Spanish lessons, aqua-aerobics and yoga; casino nights and special shows in the Beer Garden; use of the gym, tennis court and pool tables; and bicycle and shopping tours of the area. A free shuttle is offered to the Great Parnassus, its sister resort, where guests can use all the facilities, including the restaurants, bars and pools. Current pricing: From $160 per night.

WHAT WASN'T: Internet ($2 for 10 minutes), bottles of wine, laundry and dry cleaning, excursions and spa services (massages from $120 for 50 minutes).

EXCURSIONS: Cancun may be one of the party capitals of the Caribbean, but it's also within a two-hour drive of one of the New Wonders of the World. So I opted for Chichen Itza over such boozy diversions as the Party Hopper Tour (seven hours of pub-crawling) and the Caribbean Carnival excursion, a ''crazy night of fun, music and dancing!'' The $84 Chichen Itza Plus excursion turned out to be a hot, tiresome, ultimately exhilarating trip to the ancient temples and pyramids of the Maya.

BEST FEATURE: Even with a view that was less than spectacular (who wouldn't prefer the Caribbean?), that huge patio was a great perk.

WORST: I'm no fan of sweating while I'm eating, so better air conditioning in all the restaurants -- particularly the buffet -- would have been worth a few extra dollars on my bill.

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