WINE

Never mind Napa -- how about Sonoma?

ftasker@MiamiHerald.com

2005 Reserve Chardonnay, Russian River Valley
2005 Reserve Chardonnay, Russian River Valley

Alex Trebek: Sparta and Troy, Harvard and Yale, Napa and Sonoma.

Contestant: What are history's eternally enduring rivalries?

It's true. Napa and Sonoma, two neighboring northern California counties, each making some of the world's best wine, have a spirited competition that's quickly apparent to all who visit.

Napa sees itself as urbane and sophisticated, and views Sonoma-ites as overall-wearing farmers. Sonoma believes it's a last bastion of pristine land and natural living, and sees Napa wine folks as limousine-driving city slickers.

I was in Napa once and wanted to drive into Sonoma. I couldn't find a map of Sonoma in any drugstore, book shop or visitor center in the entire town. I had to do what every man hates -- ask directions.

One Sonoma denizen who speaks candidly about the rivalry is Rick Sayre, director of winemaking for Rodney Strong Vineyards.

'In wine competitions, if a wine's label doesn't say `Napa,' the writers tend not to give it a high score,'' he says.

His solution: 'We want to attack the high end and make wines that people could say, `These are from Napa.' ''

Sayre's candidates for that glory are his Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon from Alexander Valley and its Symmetry Meritage red wine, made from all five French Bordeaux varietals, cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc, petit verdot and malbec.

He uses grapes from his top vineyards and has created a small ''winery-within-the-winery'' to give individual attention to each lot of grapes that goes into the blend.

He's optimistic: ``We have the grapes, so in 10 years it will be a non-issue.''

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED

• 2005 Rodney Strong ''Jane's Vineyard'' Reserve Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley: intense red rose aromas, complex flavors of tart cherries, leather and game, bitter chocolate finish; $45.

• 2005 Rodney Strong Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, Sonoma County: velvety black color, aromas and flavors of black plums, mocha, cocoa powder, licorice, tar, powerful and smooth; $50.

• 2005 Rodney Strong ''Symmetry'' Red Meritage wine, Alexander Valley (cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc, petit verdot, malbec grapes): hint of charred oak aroma, intense, concentrated black cherry and black plum flavors, full-bodied, very smooth, opulent, creamy; $60.

RECOMMENDED

• 2006 Rodney Strong ''Charlotte's Home'' Sauvignon Blanc, Sonoma County: aromas and flavors of green melons with a hint of flint, lush and crisp; $14.

• 2006 Rodney Strong Chalk Hill Chardonnay, Sonoma County: hint of oak, flavors of vanilla and tart peaches, creamy; $20.

• 2005 Rodney Strong Reserve Chardonnay, Russian River Valley/Sonoma County: intense tropical fruit flavors, from pink grapefruit to banana, opulent, hint of minerals; $35.

• 2006 Rodney Strong Pinot Noir, Russian River Vallely, Sonoma County: tart cherry and espresso aromas and flavors; $22.

 

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