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FIRST LOOK

Spanish comfort food, refined, at W's Soleá

 

Marc Vidal left Por Fin for Soleá at the W South Beach.
Marc Vidal left Por Fin for Soleá at the W South Beach.
SIMON HARE

IF YOU GO

Soleá at the W South Beach

2201 Collins Ave., Miami Beach

breakfast, lunch and dinner daily

305-938-3111

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Special to The Miami Herald

He kept the fried egg.

More diner than fine dining, fried egg was on Marc Vidal's menu at Por Fin in Coral Gables. The dish was Spanish comfort food -- fried egg over fried potatoes with Serrano ham and, the nueva cocina touch, potato foam.

For his new assignment as executive chef at Soleá, the 180-seat luxury restaurant at the W South Beach, the 32-year-old Vidal upgraded the Serrano to Ibérico and replaced the foam with chanterelles. The mushrooms gives the homey dish a nuanced kick and the Ibérico, well, there is no better ham.

Vidal holds firmly to the peasant quality of Spanish cuisine while elevating it, sometimes simply by ingredient choice. The seafood, for example, is flown in from Spain, as it is at La Dorada and Ideas.

Much is made of Vidal's apprenticeship at Ferrán Adriá's El Bulli, home of the laboratory approach that began a new culinary era. But he insists his work in Paris with Michelin three-star chefs Alain Passard and Alain Ducasse is just as important. As for laboratory cuisine, ``no foams,'' he says.

Tastings Vidal is testing for a Monday menu launch includes such simple Spanish fare as octopus salad, cod fritters with Romesco sauce, clams with garlic and parsley and, of course, the fried egg with fries. Except that the octopus comes from Spain's northern waters, the fritters are light as air and the clams are tiny and butter sweet.

An artichoke confit with quail egg and caviar is what one expects in today's foodie tapas bars in Spain. Foie gras and fig on flatbread with a sauce made with Pedro Ximénez sherry is also refined.

Small plates ($6-$14), called pica-picas here, will be offered at the bar as well as the dining room, with a range of entrées ($20-$38) like veal cheeks and lobster caldereta (cassoulet). In fact, since Soleá is the hotel restaurant, its breakfast, lunch and dinner menus will eventually all have Vidal's Spanish food, so look not only for great fried eggs but also thick Spanish chocolate in the morning.

The cuisine of El Bulli can only be made at El Bulli, Vidal says. ``You have to have your feet firmly planted on the ground, and we have to make what we grew up with,'' he says of his traditional yet elegant cuisine.

``Feet on the ground,'' he insists, as if he were a flamenco instructor, which makes a certain sense: Soleá is the name of one of flamenco's classic dances.

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