Quick trips: Appalachians

Chasing waterfalls in western North Carolina

 

Going to western North Carolina

Getting there: Allegiant (www.allegiantair.com) flies nonstop between Asheville and Fort Lauderdale twice a week, Mondays and Fridays, a two-hour flight. Listed roundtrip airfare starts at $102 round trip, but Allegiant charges fees for services that most airlines don’t (using a credit card, carry-on baggage, etc.) so watch the dollars. US Airways/American and Delta fly from Miami or Fort Lauderdale to Asheville in under four hours with a connecting flight. Roundtrip airfare starts at $240 from Miami and just under $300 from Fort Lauderdale on weekdays in early May.

From Asheville, you can take in the waterfalls in this story on a 160-mile loop to Cashiers, Highlands, Balsam and back to Asheville. Sure, you could do it in one day, but only if you don’t want to incorporate any sense of leisure in the drive.

WHERE TO STAY

The High Hampton Inn and Country Club, 1525 Hwy. 107 S., Cashiers; 800-334-2551; www.highhamptoninn.com. Open from April 25 until Nov. 2. A full-service resort with rooms, cottages, cabins and vacation homes with rates from $184 per person per night, full American plan (three meals a day).

Balsam Mountain Inn, 68 Seven Springs Dr., Balsam; 800-224-9498; www.balsammountaininn.net. Rocker-lined porches and breakfast are highlights of this 50-room inn. Rates from $100 per night.

Old Edwards Inn and Spa, 445 Main St., Highlands; 866-526-8008; www.oldedwardsinn.com. Within walking distance of shops and restaurants. From $199 per night.

WHERE TO EAT

Randevu Restaurant, 18 Chestnut Square, Cashiers; 828-743-0190; American, French and seafood with entrees starting at $10. Cash only.

Happ’s Place, 5914 N. Hwy. 107, Glenville; 828-743-2266. Known for trout and beef dishes served with local vegetables. From $10.

Cornucopia Restaurant, 16 Cashiers School Rd., Cashiers; 828-743-3750; www.cornucopiacashiers.com. A local favorite for salads and sandwiches. Open March to November. From $9.

INFORMATION

Jackson County Travel Chamber of Commerce (for detailed waterfalls maps), 800-962-1911; www.mountainlovers.com.

Cashiers Area Chamber of Commerce, 828-743-5191; www.cashiersareachamber.com.

Transylvania County Tourism, 800-648-4523; www.visitwaterfalls.com.


Washington Post Service

As waterfalls go, Bridal Veil Falls are fairly small and easy to find. They cascade above Highway 64 just a couple of miles north of the town of Highlands in the Great Smoky Mountains of western North Carolina.

The fun fact about Bridal Veil Falls is that, if your car is small enough, you can drive under the 120-foot “veil” of water. Our 10-year old Mini Cooper easily fit into the wedge between water and mountain and made for a neat photo op. But if you drive, say, a big extended-cab pickup truck, the maneuver could get tricky.

My husband, Roy, and I have come to Cashiers, a lovely village just a few miles from Highlands and 60 miles southwest of Asheville, for a late-summer sojourn. Both of us like to hike and to photograph waterfalls, and these ancient, mythical Appalachian Mountains and tapestries of forests are striated with dozens and dozens of them within just a few miles’ radius of Cashiers.

We were staying at the High Hampton Inn, which is just a mile from town and right smack in the middle of waterfall country. The inn, at a cool and comfortable elevation of 3,600 feet, is a welcome respite from the heat and humidity of our home in Georgia.

The High Hampton is reminiscent of those fabulous family resorts of the Catskills, sort of like the one in the movie Dirty Dancing. But hubby and I have been married way too long for dirty dancing of any sort, so we spend our time chasing waterfalls instead.

Armed with a map provided by the High Hampton — waterfall-viewing is a frequent request of the inn’s guests, so a list of those nearby is graciously provided — we struck out north, south, east and west in search of these liquid treasures.

First we went south to Silver Run Falls, just under three miles from the inn. Silver Run is considered small, at a drop of only 30 to 40 feet, and the hike into the deep woods is easy on a trail surrounded by cathedrals of mountain laurel and rhododendron. Beneath a sky brindled with silver-edged clouds and iridescent sunlight, it was pretty here, and no one else was around in the early morning. The moment was romantic, and we stole a clandestine kiss.

Good thing, too. Our next stop was Sliding Rock Falls, where the late summer warmth brought out lots of kids and more than a few pups to frolic on the smooth rocks carved by endless water. The bottom of the falls forms a big swimming hole, the old-fashioned country kind that’s the perfect antidote to a hot day. There would be no stolen kisses here.

At Whitewater Falls, which was our next stop and, depending on whom you ask, is in either North or South Carolina, the roar was impressive. I was mesmerized by the unharnessed power created by not much more than the simplest elements of time, water, rock, erosion and gravity. The beauty and power of waterfalls never cease to amaze me.

The thing about Whitewater Falls, at 411 feet the highest in the eastern United States, is that you hear them long before you see them. As you glide along the footpath, the anticipation of seeing the falls grows, and the ground practically hums with unseen energy. The fresh scents of rushing water and verdant forests fill the air. There are a thousand hues of green in these hemlock forests that I never imagined existed and that can’t possibly be found in any artist’s palette.

Then, like an apparition, Whitewater Falls finally come into view, the mist rising against the mountains so that they’re veiled in a ghostly haze, the massive rocks polished golden in the soft sunlight. As my camera clicked away, I knew in my heart that there’s no way to fully capture the falls’ splendor in photos.

That afternoon, we traveled a few miles east of Cashiers along Highway 64 to Gorges State Park, near Sapphire, in Transylvania County. The park has access to several falls, including Drift Falls, Turtleback Falls, Bearwallow Falls, Horse Pasture Falls and Rainbow Falls.

“If it’s sunny, you can see a rainbow at Rainbow Falls,” a park ranger explained as he gave us a map of the park. “It’s just spectacular, but you have to come in the morning when the light is right.”

By then, it was early afternoon, so we chose instead to take an easier hike to the amusingly named Bearwallow Falls. As we descended along the pathway, my mind visualized bears wallowing around in the shallow parts of the water. The trail is steep, a little slippery and scribbled with bright yellow, daisylike flowers.

For someone like me who’s, um, a little overweight and out of shape, it wasn’t long before I was out of breath trying to keep up with my better half. If there were bears wallowing around, self-preservation be darned. Though I didn’t want to become a nice, plump ursine entree, I was sure that I couldn’t run on those precipitous paths. No bears put me to the test that day, but I have to say that the view of the falls was bear-y pretty.

Our next sojourn took us west on Highway 64 to Highlands, where we found Bridal Veil Falls and Dry Falls. The latter supposedly got their name because you can walk on a stone path behind the falls and not get wet. Roy accepted the challenge and took a few steps under the falls before coming quickly back.

“I wouldn’t call these falls exactly dry,” he shivered. “There’s a cold spray under there.”

The next morning, fueled by the High Hampton Inn’s immense buffet breakfast, we steered north of Cashiers on Highway 107 toward Glenville. Here, Hurricane Falls spill serenely into the sapphire waters of Lake Glenville, a long finger of water surrounded by the rolling Smokies.

As we drove along the scenic highway that edges the lake, I thought of Ernest Hemingway’s Green Hills of Africa. The landscape of the green hills of the Appalachians is completely different from that of East Africa, certainly, but sometimes inspiration and creativity arise solely from the beauty of a place.

In a way, waterfalls, hypnotic and tantalizing, have the unique ability to send one into a contemplative mood. It just seems easy to pull up a rock and sit a spell and ponder the meaning of life. Somehow these cold, sweet falling waters provide answers to life’s conundrums in a peaceful and harmonious way.

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