With its white sand beaches, tropical climate and relaxed pace, Fiji has rightfully earned a reputation as a South Pacific paradise. Not everything in paradise is perfect, however. There’s been a succession of military coups in Fiji, and the political restiveness stands in contrast to the easygoing nature of the people. And once you travel beyond the idyllic tourist resorts you’ll see that most people live in very basic conditions. That said, Fiji remains a fascinating destination. While most tourist activities come with a price tag, there are plenty of things for adventurous travelers to do and see for free.
• Nadi Municipal Market: In downtown Nadi, a bustling market offers tables laden with ginger, coconuts, mangoes and jackfruit. There are also lots of stands selling kava, a plant from the pepper family that is native to the Pacific and is used to make an intoxicating beverage. If you try it, drink it in moderation. Kava supplements have been banned from several countries due to health concerns. Fiji’s capital, Suva, has a similar municipal market that also sells fruit, vegetables and fish.
• Viseisei Village: This village near Lautoka is one of the country’s oldest, believed to have been founded by some of the first settlers to arrive in Fiji by canoe more than two millennia ago. You’ll get a sense of village life and see a traditional chief’s hut and ceremonial drums.
There’s also a monument that includes both a weapon and a cross. The weapon, a neck-breaker’s club, was used in past times by Fijian cannibals. The club is lying down with the cross on top, signifying an end to that way of life.
You can walk into the village at the north end for free or pay 5 Fijian dollars ($3) at the south end and have someone show you around, which is well worth it. Avoid wearing bikinis or other skimpy clothes, which are considered disrespectful in this setting.
• Pacific Harbour Beach: A fringe of coconut trees gives way to a gorgeous, pristine beach with a gentle arc. It’s the perfect place for a swim in placid waters that are as warm as a bath. Only some parts of the beach are publicly accessible, so keep an eye open for signs or ask locals. We found access just west of the Uprising Beach Resort.
• Natadola Beach: Another beach, but hey, this is Fiji! And Natadola is stunning in different ways than Pacific Harbour. The drive there takes you through lush, verdant bush. This beach often generates powerful waves which are good for body surfing, although it pays to be wary of the undertow. At other times you can take your mask and snorkel and explore. For a few dollars, locals offer horseback rides along the beach.
• Suva waterfront: Like most urban areas in Fiji, Suva, the capital, has a dilapidated feel and doesn’t immediately seem inviting. But the country’s leaders are trying to improve the waterfront promenade, which extends from the city to the national stadium and has become a popular place to jog and stroll. There’s a new picnic area and sometimes you’ll see pickup games of rugby, Fiji’s national sport.
Along the waterfront are the botanic gardens and the Presidential Palace, where guards stand to attention wearing sandals and traditional white sulus, similar to a kilt or skirt. You can watch the guards change every two hours.