People are standing 10 deep in front of me, phone cameras raised high over their heads, when the cheering starts. Thats how I know Vin Diesel has arrived for the ceremony unveiling his new star on the Hollywood Walk of Fame. I cant see him until he steps up on a platform to speak, and then only the back of his shaved head is visible.
Diesels new star is in front of the Roosevelt Hotel, where the first Academy Awards were held in 1929. Across the street at Graumans Chinese Theatre, tourists are stepping in concrete handprints and footprints left by stars from Gloria Swanson to Britney Spears.
This stretch of Hollywood Boulevard, the heart of the Walk of Fame, is home to two celebrity-studded wax museums, the Dolby Theatre (formerly the Kodak Theatre) permanent home of the Academy Awards, the Hollywood Museum, several grand old movie theaters, and the Road to Hollywood, a winding trail with showbiz anecdotes set in mosaics that ends at an enormous casting couch.
Along these blocks, a celebration of stardom and entertainment, it is always tourist season. More than a dozen bus and van tours of Hollywood operate here, and every few feet bring a new opportunity for a cell-phone selfie.
Half a mile away is the star of Rudolph Valentino, the silent-film actor known as the Latin lover and one of the first sex symbols of the cinema. Few tourists wander to this end of the Walk of Fame, which is just east of the intersection of Hollywood and Vine.
Ive come to Hollywood on a Valentino quest, looking for memories of the Italian actor, who died 87 years ago, and of the Hollywood of yesteryear.
You could say I spent most of my teen years under Valentinos eyes. My generation of Lamberts attended Hollywood High School, whose mascot is the sheik. A mural of Valentino, in the headdress he wore in The Sheik, perhaps his best-known film, is painted on the rear of the school auditorium, overlooking the athletic fields.
Valentino was born in Italy in 1895 and came to the United States at 18. He ended up in Los Angeles, where he won a few bit parts in movies. His breakout role came in 1921 in The Four Horsemen of the Apocalypse, made by Metro Pictures, forerunner of MGM. He made five movies that year, including The Sheik by Famous Players-Lasky, which would later become Paramount Pictures. When he died of a perforated ulcer in 1926 at 31, he had appeared in 40 movies. An open-coffin viewing in New York caused a near-riot; tens of thousands of fans lined the streets.
Now it is said that he haunts Hollywood. A website called creepyla.com lists more than a dozen places where sightings of his ghost have been reported, including Frank and Mussos Grill, Hollywoods oldest restaurant; the Roosevelt Hotel, where Diesels star is embedded; the Hollywood and Highland Center, on the site of the former Hollywood Hotel, where he had a suite; Paramount Studios; and at one time, his now-felled homes in Hollywood and Beverly Hills.
Hollywood High School is on Highland Avenue, a block south of Hollywood Boulevard. It is on the National Register of Historic Places and has its own tiny museum honoring the schools famous alumni, including Judy Garland, Lana Turner, Mickey Rooney and Carol Burnett. During the Lambert years, our classmates included John Ritter ( Threes Company), Rita Wilson ( Sleepless in Seattle), Diana Canova ( Soap) and Charlene Tilton ( Dallas).
Hollywood has gone through several transformations since the days of Valentino, when it was the glamorous center of the film industry. Most of the studios have since moved to Burbank, Culver City or elsewhere in the Los Angeles area. Although many small movie-related businesses are scattered throughout Hollywood, Paramount is the only major studio still there.
Nor is it any longer the gritty neighborhood of the late 1960s and 70s, plagued by urban decay. I was in high school then, and my idea of entertainment on the boulevard was people-watching Hare Krishnas chanting, evangelists recruiting, angry political loners ranting, conspiracy theorists trying to force fliers on passersby.
I occasionally brushed up against show biz spotted an actor at church or in the grocery store, sat in the audience for the tapings of a few TV shows, visited a friend whose backyard overlooked the home of Mama Cass. But I was more interested in observing the heavens through the telescopes at the Griffith Observatory than checking out the names of stars on Hollywood Boulevard. Ive never been on a tour of movie stars homes.
Now the area around Hollywood High School is primarily a tourist destination. The Hollywood & Highland Center, which opened in 2001, is credited with attracting other businesses and helping the areas comeback. A few blocks beyond Hollywood & Highland, however, Hollywood Boulevard is a mix of glitter and seediness.
In that half-mile walk between Diesels and Valentinos stars are the Ripleys Believe It or Not Odditorium; tattoo parlors; Fredericks of Hollywood, the original naughty lingerie shop; souvenir stores offering not-quite-exact miniatures of the Oscar statuette; a substantial chunk of real estate owned by the Church of Scientology; a plaque marking the historical corner of Hollywood and Vine; and Musso and Franks restaurant, where a notice posted in the window on the day I visit says scenes for a movie will be shot there later in the week.
One of the anchors of what you might call the tourism area is Graumans Chinese Theatre. The theater opened in 1927, an ornate and opulent pagoda with imported Chinese artifacts and custom-made statuary, including a 30-foot dragon and two giant Heaven Dogs that guard the entrance. Its first movie was Cecil B. DeMilles The King of Kings, which drew thousands of spectators who massed along Hollywood Boulevard to see the stars. That was also Hollywoods first red-carpet premiere, the inspiration of Sid Grauman, a master showman.
The theater has changed hands and names and been refurbished several times. Now named TCL Chinese Theatre and newly redone as an IMAX theater, it claims to be the most popular attraction in Hollywood, with four million visitors a year. The Heaven Dogs still guard the door and it still hosts premieres for the studios, with celebrities walking the red carpet.
The first footprint was created when Norma Talmadge, a silent-movie star, accidentally stepped in wet concrete days before the grand opening. Grauman immediately realized the promotional value and got two of his business partners, Mary Pickford and Douglas Fairbanks, Sr., to leave footprints as well. Today the forecourt has 265 sets of prints but not Valentinos; he died the year before the theater opened. Movie studios pay thousands of dollars for one of their stars to leave handprints there. In addition to hands and feet, the concrete blocks also hold the imprints of noses, knees, glasses, Groucho Marxs cigar, R2D2s tread marks, Sonja Henies ice-skate blades and Triggers hoofprint.
Some of the most popular prints today are those of Michael Jackson (made posthumously last year when his children pressed his sequined glove and dancing shoes into the concrete) and the casts of the Twilight and Harry Potter movies (the latter also made impressions of their wands). On an ordinary day, the plaza is jammed with crowds of tourists posing with a hand or a foot in a favorite celebritys prints.
Here and elsewhere along the boulevard, freelance actors dressed as movie characters Superman, Cinderella, Darth Vader, Spider-Man, Jack Sparrow, Catwoman are available for photos. These characters arent officially sanctioned, and sometimes fight over territory with other street performers. Visitors have complained about aggressive panhandling by the characters. Although they are not supposed to solicit tips, some drop not-so-subtle hints. A Michael Jackson imitator walks through the forecourt, his gloved hand holding a fistful of dollar bills above his hat. Minnie Mouse leans close to a fan and rubs her fingers together in the universal gesture for money.
Amateur entertainers all along the boulevard are trying to make money. Two young men are quasi-boxing on the sidewalk as people watch; then one of them cries, Tips in the bucket people, please, put your tips in the bucket. A man thrusts a CD at me, says its reggae and he wants me to have it. Then he adds, Can you give something for this? How about $5? Catwoman whispers to passersby, Care to join me for a photo?
Tourists squat and place a hand on a favorite entertainers star, most of which have been in place for more than half a century.
The Walk of Fame was created in 1960-61, with 1,558 stars along Hollywood Boulevard between Gower and La Brea and along a short stretch of Vine Street. Since then, almost 1,000 more stars have been added.
Getting ones name on a star is not a gift though entertainers must be nominated, and the sponsor pays $30,000 for the star. Several hundred people are nominated in a typical year; 15 to 25 will get them.
The ceremonies are free and open to the public, but unless the honoree chooses to mingle with the crowd, dont expect to get close to him or her. In August, I went to the unveiling of Diesels star on a whim and barely caught a glimpse of him. But Michelle Rodriguez, one of his Fast and Furious co-stars, took part in the ceremony and worked the crowd afterwards, signing autographs and posing for photos.
Valentino was one of the 1,558 entertainers whose star was part of the original Walk of Fame. He had been dead 34 years when it was installed.
Just months before Valentino died, Paramount moved from Hollywood and Vine to its present location about a mile away on Melrose Avenue. The imposing gates of the new Paramount grounds featured in Sunset Boulevard had an extra filigree of iron added to the top after some of Valentinos fans tried to climb over them. He is rumored to haunt a former apartment building that was converted to Paramount office space and is now called the Valentino Building, but he never lived in the apartment, and its not even clear that he ever set foot inside the new Paramount gates.
Directors like Cecil B. DeMille, D.W. Griffith and Alfred Hitchcock once made movies here. Their stars included Mae West, Elvis Presley, Audrey Hepburn, Harrison Ford, Meryl Streep and Angelina Jolie. Since Valentino was one of the studios early stars, I signed up for the two-hour tour of Hollywoods last major studio.
Today Paramount Studios, with its sound stages and back lots, is used mostly to film television shows. Movies are more likely to be shot on location often far from Los Angeles. A back lot has settings for urban street scenes, including the facade of the Boston Police Department from Rizzoli & Isles.
Our tour group saw sets for Happy Endings and American Horror Story, the soundstage for The Doctors, the studio cafe that doubles as the Breadsticks restaurant in Glee. We saw Elisha Cuthbert and other members of the cast of Happy Endings being ferried away from the set on golf carts. And leaning against the wall to the right, is that Chevy Chase, whose show, Community, is filmed here? No, our tour guide says, its his double.
If Paramount is where the most tangible memories of Valentino remain, there are many more scattered around Hollywood. Tiny De Longpre Park, about a half-mile south of Hollywood Boulevard, has two sculptures of him. A street by Paramount Studios is named for him. The Hollywood Museum has photos of him and posters from some of his movies.
Rudolph Valentino himself is not hard to find. His remains are in a crypt in the Hollywood Forever Cemetery on Santa Monica Boulevard, on the back side of Paramount Studios.
The cemetery which has its own troubled history and whose current owners reportedly inspired the TV series Six Feet Under holds the remains of about 90,000 people, most of them not famous. But Valentinos company here includes Cecil B. DeMille, Douglas Fairbanks, Bugsy Siegel, Fay Wray, Johnny Ramone and Dee Dee Ramone, Don Adams (his headstone engraved with a likeness of his most famous character, the bumbling spy Maxwell Smart, talking on his shoe phone), and a memorial to Toto from The Wizard of Oz. Without a ticket to an awards show, its probably the biggest gathering of Hollywood celebrities that a member of the public can attend.
Admission to the cemetery is free, but the necessary map of the resting places of celebrities costs $5. Its common to see members of the public wandering slowly between headstones, map in one hand, heads tilted to read the engraved names. For $16, visitors can join a two-hour guided tour. On summer evenings, movies are projected on the exterior wall of the mausoleum where Valentinos remains lie; seating is on the Fairbanks Lawn.
Here, the Latin lover is not forgotten. For years, the Lady in Black and at times, multiple Ladies in Black left roses by his crypt on the anniversary of his death, Aug. 23, 1926. And to this day, a memorial service is held every Aug. 23 at 12:10 p.m., the hour of his death.
I visited the mausoleum a few days after this years memorial, attended by about 200 people, and found masses of by-then wilted flowers left at his crypt, evidence of his enduring popularity. The man whose face is painted on the side of my high school auditorium may be unknown or forgotten by tourists along the Walk of Fame, but here between walls of white marble, Rudolph Valentino is still remembered as cinemas first sex symbol.