Restaurant review

Riverside Hotel’s Wild Sea still casting about for identity

Wild Sea Oyster Bar & Grille replaced the long-shuttered Grill Room at the historic Riverside Hotel in Fort Lauderdale.
Wild Sea Oyster Bar & Grille replaced the long-shuttered Grill Room at the historic Riverside Hotel in Fort Lauderdale.
Danny Steyn Photography/Courtesy / Danny Steyn Photography

If you go

Place: Wild Sea Oyster Bar & Grille

Address: 620 E. Las Olas Blvd., Riverside Hotel, Fort Lauderdale

Rating: OK

Contact: 954-467-2555,

Cost: Expensive-very expensive

Hours: Dinner Wednesday-Saturday, brunch Sunday

FYI: Reservations suggested. Full bar. Free garage parking or $4 valet. Major credit cards accepted.


Ever been to a restaurant where nothing on the menu tempts you to stay?

On my first visit to Wild Sea Oyster Bar & Grille, there were just two seafood choices among the entrees. There was South Carolina wreckfish with patty pan squash and heirloom tomato ($31) and Virginia striped bass with bacon, English peas and preserved Meyer lemon ($30).

The other three choices were free-range chicken, pork porterhouse and beef cheeks.

It was my understanding that Wild Sea, which opened Feb. 19, was all about Florida seafood. And the word "grille" led to me believe that if we didn’t want seafood, we might find a great strip steak or a burger.

Not so.

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