We learn the island has no bears or raccoons but does have moose, wolves and red foxes, which Crosby says will steal not only food but anything else left out. We get our camping permit and walk 10 minutes to the Washington Creek campground, which offers well-spaced sites with screened wooden shelters amid the woods, close to outhouses and a water faucet. We hike down the Feldtmann Lake trail to an overlook, 3 1/2 miles round trip, then return to our campsite to pitch our tent, read and listen to loons chattering across the cove. In the evening, we walk back to the dock to watch the sunset over the harbor. The wind picks up overnight, and by the time we board for the afternoon return trip, Superior has 4-foot waves that leave some passengers queasy - and us, enjoying the views outside on that bucking bronco, soaking wet.

From Grand Portage it's a two-hour drive south to Two Harbors, where we check in at Gooseberry Cabins and Motel, a down-home place with a few cabins overlooking Lake Superior. We walk across Wisconsin Highway 61 to the Rustic Inn and Cafe, where we have two different, delicious walleye dinners and some local craft brews. Around noon the next day, we set out to hike the 5-mile loop of the Split Rock River Trail, where we find the most spectacular scenery yet. The water being low, we hop from one dry rock to another to eat our lunch next to a waterfall on an expanse of midstream rock. We also stop to climb up a 20-foot outcropping that cleaves the river like a ship's prow, just below the towering split rock. The hiking is reasonably strenuous, and we reach trail's end, across the highway on Lake Superior, at 5:30.

It was as good a hike as I've ever taken - a high reward for a moderate investment of time, effort and gas. For this part of Minnesota, though, that's just what I've come to expect.

IF YOU GO:

GETTING THERE: Two Harbors is on the southern end of the North Shore. Duluth International Airport, a half-hour drive from Two Harbors, is served by United and Delta, with direct flights to Chicago, Minneapolis-St. Paul and Detroit.

KAYAKING: Outings and instruction can be arranged at several outfitters in the area, including North Shore Expeditions at 10 S. First Ave. West in Grand Marais (218-370-8351, northshoreexpeditions.com).

ISLE ROYALE: The Voyageur II departs from Grand Portage to Isle Royale each Monday, Wednesday and Saturday during summer (through Sept. 15 this year) and returns Tuesday, Thursday and Sunday. It doesn't operate on Fridays. The round-trip fare for Grand Portage and Windigo, on the western tip of the island, is $67 ($46 for kids 11 or younger, free for those 3 and younger). From Grand Portage to other sites on the island, including Rock Harbor at the eastern end, the fare is $80. A $4-per-day park user fee also is collected (in cash) for all passengers 12 or older. On the island, campers are advised to boil water or use a 25-micron filter because of tapeworm eggs (218-475-0024 or 218-475-0074 isleroyaleboats.com).

WHERE TO STAY: The Lutsen Mountain Inn near Grand Marais has rooms for about $110 a night (855-458-8736, lutsenmountaininn.com). Bob's Cabins in Two Harbors has rustic lakeshore housekeeping cabins starting at $105 a night (218-834-4583, bobscabinsonlakesuperior.com). On Isle Royale, the Rock Harbor Lodge offers housekeeping cottages starting at $248 per night in peak season and lodge rooms starting at $256, as well as rustic one-room cabins (without indoor plumbing) starting at $48 (906-337-4993, rockharborlodge.com). Campsites with screened shelters are available at numerous sites on the island. There is no fee, but a camping permit is required (nps.gov/isro).

WHERE TO EAT: Grand Marais has plenty of dining options. The Pie Place, 207 W. Wisconsin St., serves breakfast, lunch and dinner, besides a staggering array of pies (218-387-1513, thepieplacecafe.com). World's Best Donuts, 10 E. Wisconsin St., offers cake-style doughnuts (218-387-1345, worldsbestdonutsmn.com). Sydney's Frozen Custard & Wood-Fired Pizza has pizza, hot dogs and frozen treats, which you can enjoy on its rooftop terrace overlooking the beach (218-387-2632). The Gun Flint Tavern, 111 W. Wisconsin St., has a varied menu, from steaks to pasta to Mexican fare, and a long list of craft beers (218-387-1563, gunflinttavern.com).