Romans feud over temple turned 'cat-acombs'

 

The Orange County Register

ROME - The Roman Republic, Julius Caesar, Shakespeare, "Et Tu Brute," Mussolini and the archaeology community of Italy vs. diluted calicos, tabbies, Persians, Siamese, "Il Gatti di Roma," "cat ladies," the mayor of Rome and the felines' allies in the Eternal City.

The battle over the Largo di Torre Argentina in the heart of the Italian capital pits visions of what should be, what is and what could be. In the middle are hundreds of cats who call the oldest ruins in Rome their home.

"Visit the place where emperors once ruled and cats now reign," trumpets the brochure of the cat sanctuary that set up shop inside the ruins 20 years ago.

That has set off a reaction of some politicians and preservationists who don't like seeing the place where Julius Caesar was stabbed to death turned into a combination petting zoo and litter box.

"The cat ladies are occupying one of the most important sites in Largo Argentina, and that is incompatible with the preservation of the monument," said Fedora Filippi, a federal Culture Ministry spokesman, in The New York Times last summer.

Not all politicians are siding with the effort to evict the four-legged residents

"I'm on the cats' side," Rome Mayor Gianni Alemanno tweeted late last year. "So is my own cat, Certosino." Alemanno has sought to portray the federal government as the bad guys and his local staff as pushed out of the decision-making process

The site is in the heart of Rome, just five minutes from the Pantheon. Nearby is the Piazza Venezia, where Fascist dictator Benito Mussolini exhorted his countrymen to go to war against the Americans, British and Russians. To build Italian pride in their past, Mussolini spent millions unearthing Roman temples and monuments. One of the lost treasures was the Largo Argentina.

From a historical perspective, it was a jewel. It was a rare Republican-era complex of temples, theaters and shops, from the time before the emperors. Research showed it was likely the Theater of Pompey, where the first emperor, Julius Caesar, was knifed by opposing senators who worried of his growing power. The act effectively ended the Republic and began the empire under his son, Augustus Caesar. The act was immortalized in Shakespeare's "Julius Caesar," where the mortally wounded emperor stares in disbelief at the bloody knife of Brutus, a senator he thought an ally. "Et tu, Brute?" - "You too, Brutus?"

But the history of the site was more impressive than what was left of the place itself. The marble was mostly long gone, leaving just a few columns and piles of the familiar Roman baked brick. Worst of all, the city had grown up over the site. After digging it out, the ruins were 15 feet below the street surface, creating a square block pit that required a hike down steps to explore. Gates were placed at the top of the staircases and, in typical Italian bureaucratic style, they were more often locked than open. Over the decades, work started and stopped on restoring the buildings - rows of numbered stones sit idly in one corner near a staircase. It never caught on as a major tourist site to rival the Colosseum and Vatican. The southeast corner of the temple area has become the evening hangout for drunks who urinate in and around an enclosed bus kiosk.

If humans did not want the place, it was a perfect hideout for the city's feral cats. With its many nooks and crannies, piles of stones, shady porticos and sunken position that gave the cats warning of interlopers, it was a near perfect habitat. Cats being great climbers, they would assume a sleepy but regal presence atop ruined pillars, drape themselves over ancient staircases or loll next to tablets with Latin or Greek inscriptions. Photos spread the word of the "cat temple." Tourists came and the Torre Argentina received new life as a tourist attraction - not because of Caesar, but cats.

Read more Travel Wires stories from the Miami Herald

  • The wilds of the Midwest: Lake Superior's North Shore, Isle Royale tantalize hikers

    Ten years ago, a woman living near Dallas, gripped by wanderlust and the sadness of impending empty-nest syndrome, went to a search engine and typed in "waterfalls" and "hiking." That's how I came to be sitting on a rock outcropping beside a river as it churns foam while rushing down a narrow gorge - not in Colorado or West Virginia but Minnesota. Yes, Minnesota.

  • Half Dome in Yosemite National Park is a California icon

    YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK - Japanese artist Hokusai liked Mt. Fuji. Really liked it. So in the 1820s and 1830s, he made a series of 36 woodblock prints of the mountain, from near and far, in summer and winter. When they went over well, he made 10 more scenes. Then, because an artist must follow his muse, he started a new series: 100 views of Mt. Fuji.

  • Outlaw Run tops hottest new attractions at U.S. theme parks

    I've visited many theme parks in the United States over the last few years as the theme park blogger for the Los Angeles Times' Travel website, but this summer's crop of rides already has me updating my bucket list. Here's a look at some of the biggest new roller coasters, dark rides, live shows, water slides and themed lands planned for this summer at theme parks across the country.

Miami Herald

Join the
Discussion

The Miami Herald is pleased to provide this opportunity to share information, experiences and observations about what's in the news. Some of the comments may be reprinted elsewhere on the site or in the newspaper. We encourage lively, open debate on the issues of the day, and ask that you refrain from profanity, hate speech, personal comments and remarks that are off point. Thank you for taking the time to offer your thoughts.

The Miami Herald uses Facebook's commenting system. You need to log in with a Facebook account in order to comment. If you have questions about commenting with your Facebook account, click here.

Have a news tip? You can send it anonymously. Click here to send us your tip - or - consider joining the Public Insight Network and become a source for The Miami Herald and el Nuevo Herald.

Hide Comments

This affects comments on all stories.

Cancel OK

  • Videos



  • Quick Job Search

Enter Keyword(s) Enter City Select a State Select a Category