Maryland

 

Going to Annapolis, MD

Getting there: American and USAirways fly nonstop from Miami to Baltimore; AirTran, Southwest and Spirit fly nonstop from Fort Lauderdale, a trip of about 21/2 hours. Midweek roundtrip airfare in August starts at $143 from Fort Lauderdale, $192 from Miami. Annapolis is 25 miles from the Baltimore airport, and there’s a Rails to Trails path connecting them.

Getting around: Annapolis is an easy walking city with a few hills. A City Circulator trolley; six-passenger, electric-powered eCruisers (large golf cart); and bicycle “rentals” (June through Oct. 1 for those 18 and older) are the most popular free transportation options. A fee-based water taxi is available mid-May to Labor Day.

Information: Annapolis and Anne Arundel County Conference and Visitors Bureau; 410-280-0445, www.VisitAnnapolis.org

WHERE TO STAY

Annapolis Marriott Waterfront, 80 Compromise St.; 888-773-0786, http://www.marriott.com/hotels/travel/bwiaw-annapolis-marriott-waterfront. This just-renovated hotel is the largest on the water and in the historic area. Rooms ending in numbers 6 through 31 have a water view. Pusser’s Caribbean Grille serves island food plus local crab dip and crabcakes. Rooms $269-$379 (less on weeknights).

Country Inn & Suites Annapolis, 2600 Housely Rd.; 410-571-6700, www.countryinns.com. Outside the historic district, but a free local evening shuttle is provided, based on availability. Indoor pool and fitness center; hot breakfast included; pets allowed. Rooms $121-$180.

Annapolis Inn, 144 Prince George St.; 410-295-5200, www.annapolisinn.com. This three-suite inn near the City Dock and the Naval Academy has an extraordinary collection of antiques, furnishings, and appointments. This is colonial living as the colonists would have wanted. Rooms $259 and up.

WHERE TO EAT

Chick ‘n Ruth’s, 165 Main St.; 410-269-6737; www.chickandruths.com. Locals and tourists mingle here, where the Pledge of Allegiance is recited each morning. Known for its “colossal” sandwiches and milkshakes. Burgers and sandwiches, $3.75-$19.99; dinner entrees $7.50-$24.99.

Harry Browne’s Restaurant, 66 State Circle; 410-263-4332; www.harrybrownes.com. Seasonally changing fine dining on white linens, weeknight happy hour, $5 burger or other light fare in the lounge. Open for lunch, dinner and Sunday brunch. Dinner entrees $27-$34.

Davis’ Pub, 400 Chester Ave.; 410 268-7432, www.davispub.com. This is about as pubby as you could wish, set in the across-the-Spa-Creek neighborhood of Eastport. It has a seriously small front porch for outdoor eating, Monday-Thursday daily specials, sandwiches and crab cakes. Sandwiches and entrees $4.95-$17.95.

WHAT TO DO

Naval Academy tours: 410-293-8587, www.usna.edu/NAFPRODV/VC/tours.html. Park and walk onto the grounds at Gate 1; photo ID required for ages 16 and over.

Boat crewing: http://race.annapolisyc.org, www.Spinsheet.com

Jonas Green Park: 1990 Governor Ritchie Hwy.; 410-722-6141, www.aacounty.org/RecParks/launch/jonasgreen.cfm#.UYOlmkrwmuI

World War II Monument: Route 450 at the Naval Academy Bridge; www.mdva.state.md.us/MMMC/inventoryPopups/wwiiAnnapolis.html


Special to The Miami Herald

You can also picnic, launch a canoe or kayak or just watch the sailboats and motorboats plying the river. Swimming is prohibited. When I just want to soak in some nature and do a little people-watching, I go to this little park, named for a noted Annapolis public figure from the mid-1700s.

Browsing the local shops and boutiques along Main Street and Maryland Avenue is a treasure hunt. It’s easy to pick up a custom-designed silk tie or a unique hand-crafted souvenir. At the Seasons Olive Oil & Vinegar Taproom, you can taste extra virgin olive oil and balsamic vinegar from a huge selection before you buy. Leather designer Koren Ray’s flagship store, featuring her Hobo Bags, is here; she’s a local. The town’s clothing and gift selections tend to be on the nautical and dressy-casual side — “clothing inspired by the Annapolis way of life,” says Larry Vincent of Laurance Clothing.

It’s hard to choose between ice cream shops. If I’m on Main Street, I stop at Annapolis Ice Cream Co. The decision between apple pie, peanut butter Oreo, and raspberry chocolate chip is tough. If I’m two short blocks away, at the City Dock, then I’ll stop at Storm Bros., where my favorite is the mint chocolate chip.

Patriotism is on the menu every morning at Chick & Ruth’s Delly on Main Street, where the Pledge of Allegiance is recited at 9:30 a.m. on weekends and 8:30 a.m. on weekdays. During the legislative season, from early January through early April, it’s a home-away-from-home for a lot of the politicians and lobbyists, so seating can be squeezy. Ted and Beth Levitt are second-generation operators of the eatery, which opened in 1965.

When it’s pub fare I crave, I head to the Eastport neighborhood for a stop at Davis’ Pub. As much as I think I ought to vary my order, I’m addicted to the crab pretzel; a large soft pretzel drowned by a crab mixture and heated just a little. The combination of salty, chewy, and creamy is worth its own trip.

As can be expected in the self-proclaimed “America’s Sailing Capital,” boat races are held regularly, summer and winter. I can watch the races from a bridge or the Naval Academy seawall, or I can volunteer to crew. The winter races are within the harbor, without spinnakers. I learned to sail just down the Bay from here and lessons are available for children, women only, or men and women. In other words, I can enjoy the views or join the crews.

The Chesapeake Bay and its open waters are just minutes from the Annapolis waterways and the Severn River. Once on the Bay, you can join the watermen in sailboats and motorboats while you explore the 200 miles of towns, beaches, and tributaries. Fishing is ideal, with 350 types of fish providing interesting challenges and menu options, or just catch and release. In the fresh-water parts of the bay, you can find trout, brown bullhead, largemouth bass, and channel catfish. If you want to stay closer to shore, prime estuary fish are the striped bass , silver perch and flounder.

With wind-filled sails, old buildings, postcard-perfect cloud-filled skies, and flowers festooning almost every corner, it’s understandable that everywhere I turn seems to be a permanent image from a watercolor or pastel memory book.

Judy Colbert is a Maryland-based writer and photographer and the author of "Chesapeake Bay Crabs" cookbook and several travel guides.

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