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VILLAGE CHARM
Abaco: A+
Exuma: A-
Straight out of a gingerbread fairy tale, settlements such as New Plymouth on Green Turtle Cay, Hope Town on Elbow Cay, and Cherokee Sound on Great Abaco send Abaco to the head of the class. Settled in the 18th century by British Loyalists fleeing the aftermath of the American Revolution, they feel like Nantucket and Barbados had a baby.
George Town on Great Exuma, too, exudes a Brit air enlivened with Bahamian vitality, especially come Friday evening. The boating crowd brings a nautical niceness to the main commercial center.
RESORTS
Abaco: A
Exuma: A
Most of the resorts in Abaco and Exuma have marinas or at least easy access to the water by boat.
Although Exuma boasts the biggest resort of the two destinations — Sandals Emerald Bay, a top-service all-inclusive on Great Exuma — Abaco runs neck-to-neck, thanks to all of its one-of-a-kind properties ranging from small, historic inns like the Hope Town Harbour Lodge on Elbow Cay to the Treasure Cay Resort and Abaco Beach Resort, both on Great Abaco.
Golfers gravitate to Treasure Cay, also known for its plush beach. For those like me who prefer the convenience and authenticity of staying near the local pulse, Abaco Beach Resort has a relaxed, salty style.
Also in Abaco, resorts such as the Green Turtle Club on Green Turtle Cay and Sea Spray Resort on Elbow Cay offer an out-cays experience that defies reality. Walker’s Cay, a famed resort of the ’60s and ’70s, has been purchased and will, by all reports, return to its former identity as a top yachter’s and diver’s getaway.
In Exuma, you can stay at Copperfield’s Musha Cay, if you have mucho dinero. Watch for news of an exclusive golf resort to open on coconut palm-lined Bock Cay.
WILDLIFE EXPERIENCES
Abaco: B+
Exuma: A+
One of my first wildlife-interaction experiences happened at Manjack Cay in Abaco. Here our snorkeling excursion wound up with a grouper picnic on the beach. While we waited to eat, we stuffed bits of leftover grouper between our toes as rays with wingspans like condors skimmed over our feet for handouts — well, more accurately footouts, I guess.
Since then, I have fed grapes on a stick to the endangered Bahamas rock iguanas below the limestone cliffs of Exuma’s Great Guana Cay, photographed my husband swimming with the wild pigs of nearby Big Major Cay, and snorkeled with sharks and bonefish at Compass Cay.
Besides the incredible marine life at both island groups, Abaco’s preserves afford opportunities to spot the rare Abaco parrot.
SHOPPING
Abaco: A
Exuma: B
Abaco’s Marsh Harbour beats Exuma’s George Town hands-down on shopping, including art galleries and a duty-free shop among the usual souvenir joints.
Hope Town on Elbow Cay also deserves some serious shopping time, but for the most unusual finds head to Man-O-War Cay, where the Albury Sail Shop staff sews — right before your eyes — its famous sturdy duck bags in all designs and sizes. Stop in Joe Albury’s Studio. If you’re lucky, Joe will be around to show you the latest wooden boat he’s building.
In Little Harbour, tour the Johnston foundry and buy bronze sculptures from the gallery. Near the airport, Abaco Neem farms the healing neem tree to make into natural health products.
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