Quick trips: Alabama

Birmingham embraces its complex history

 

Going to Birmingham

Getting there: American flies nonstop from Miami in just under two hours; no nonstops from Fort Lauderdale. Delta and US Aiways can get you there from either city in under four hours, as can Southwest from Fort Lauderdale. Roundtrip airfare from Fort Lauderdale starts around $425 in late July, from Miami at $365.

Information: Greater Birmingham Convention & Visitors Bureau; 800-458-8085 or 205-458-8000; http://birminghamal.org.

WHERE TO STAY

The Tutwiler Hotel, 2021 Park Pl. N.; 205-322-2100; www.thetutwilerhotel.com. This Hampton Inn property offers early 20th century historical ambience and a central location. Rooms start at $159.

The Hotel Highlands At Five Points South, 1023 20th St. S.; 205-933-9555; www.ascendcollection.com. A member of the Ascend Collection, the boutique hotel is close to the University of Alabama Birmingham in the city’s Historic Southside. Rooms from $129.

Marriott’s Renaissance Ross Bridge Golf Resort & Spa, 4000 Grand Ave., Hoover; 205-916-7677; www.marriott.com. Located 30 minutes outside town, the hotel has an 18-hole golf course on the Robert Trent Jones Golf Trail (www.rtjgolf.com). Rooms from $229.

WHERE TO EAT

Chez Fonfon, 2007 11th Ave. S.; 205-939-3221; www.fonfonbham.com. Entrees $10-$22.50.

Saw’s Juke Joint, 1115 Dunston Ave., Mountain Brook; 205-745-3920. Entrees $5-$10.

Highlands Bar & Grill, 2011 11th Ave. S.; 205-939-1400; www.highlandsbarandgrill.com, next to Chez Fonfon. Fresh, rural ingredients and French-inspired technique. Entrees $28-$34.

Little Savannah, 3811 Clairmont Ave.; 205-591-1119; www.littlesavannah.com, in the suburb of Forest Park. Chef/owner Clif Holt’s farm-to-table talents are what keep guests coming back to this Southern bistro. Entrees $25-$28.


Los Angeles Times

At lunchtime, I picked up three of my colleagues who were eager to dine at Chez Fonfon in the Five Points area of Birmingham. The French bistro was opened in 2000 by Frank Stitt, who, many believe, has almost single-handedly put Birmingham on the foodie map with Fonfon, the next-door Highlands Bar & Grill, and Bottega Restaurant & Cafe.

Chez Fonfon did not disappoint. Our group sampled a fennel and blue cheese tartine; gravlax with potato cakes and horseradish cream; a shrimp and avocado salad; trout with brown butter, capers and Brabant potatoes; and Gulf fish with olives, roasted potatoes and aioli.

The next night we dined at Saw’s Juke Joint in the suburb of Mountain Brook, southeast of downtown. It was crowded with locals who wore their loyalties — Auburn and Alabama, primarily — on their sweat shirts and kept their eyes glued to the flat-screen TVs tuned to the sports matchups of the day.

Our waitress handled our party with ease, and soon we were feasting on fried okra, onions and pickles, pork with grits and turnip greens, and deviled eggs, all served amid buckets of peppers, barbecue sauce, hot sauce and mustard, rolls of paper towels, and beers and margaritas.

If Fonfon calls to mind an outing on a sunny afternoon in the south of France, Saw’s Juke Joint is more Oktoberfest in Munich. Almost every member of our crowd departed with a glaze of satisfaction on his or her face.

A handful of us returned to the Sixteenth Street Baptist Church for Sunday services. We needed more time to look around and take in the beauty of the sanctuary. We listened to hymns of praise, readings from Luke and Matthew, and a pastor who preached for close to an hour — seemingly without notes.

Inside, the congregation listened to the choir sing Victory in Jesus. Outside, runners in the Mercedes-Benz Marathon passed by, struggling to complete their Herculean task. Just a few minutes away, patrons at the newly opened Todd English P.U.B. at the Westin Birmingham sipped beers and indulged in another type of worship: the adulation of professional sports figures.

Faith takes many forms in Birmingham, and on this Sunday morning they all seemed to be on display.

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