Quick trips: Virginia

At Williamsburg, history does not repeat itself

 

Going to Williamsburg

Getting there: The closest airport is the Newport News/Williamsburg International Airport, just 17 miles away. There are no nonstops from Miami or Fort Lauderdale, but several airlines make the trip in about four hours with a change of planes. Round trip airfare starts around $285 from Fort Lauderdale, $420 from Miami in late July. Williamsburg is 45 miles from Richmond or Norfolk. American flies nonstop to both from Miami (starting around $240 to Richmond, $265 to Norfolk); JetBlue flies nonstop from Fort Lauderdale to Richmond (from $190). Again, several airlines fly to either city from South Florida with a change of planes and travel time of four to five hours.

Information: visitwilliamsburg.com

WHERE TO STAY

Williamsburg Woodlands Hotel & Suites, 105 Visitor Center Dr., Williamsburg; 800-447-8679; www.colonialwilliamsburg.com/stay/williamsburg-woodlands. Ideal location next to the visitor center and within walking distance to Colonial Williamsburg. Amenities include pool, fitness center, gift shop, mini-golf and free breakfast. Rates from $165.

Wedmore Place, 5810 Wessex Hundred, Williamsburg; 866-933-6673; www.wedmoreplace.com. The elegant property is set in a vineyard and styled after a European country inn. Each room is inspired by a different region or country, such as Wales, Normandy and Bohemia. Rate includes wine tour and tasting for two, and breakfast. Rates from $195.

WHERE TO EAT

Huzzah! BBQ Grille, 113 Visitor Center Dr., Williamsburg; 757-229-2141; www.colonialwilliamsburg.com/do/restaurants/resort-restaurants/huzzah. The restaurant’s new menu features a bit of everything: pizza, salads, burgers, barbecue in many varieties (pork ribs, beef brisket, chicken). Meals from $8.50.

Riverwalk Restaurant, 323 Water St., Yorktown; 757-875-1522; www.riverwalkrestaurant.net. The restaurant at Yorktown’s Riverwalk Landing is heavy on steak and seafood, with salads and pasta tossed into the mix. Stellar views of the York River. Dinner entrees from $17.

WHAT TO DO

Busch Gardens Williamsburg, 1 Busch Gardens Blvd.; 800-343-7946; seaworldparks.com/en/buschgardens-williamsburg. Open daily through Sept. 2, when days are cut back to Friday-Sunday. Wolf Training Up-Close tour is held twice a day; cost is $27, plus park admission. Single-day park ticket is $70.

Jamestown Settlement/Historic Jamestowne, 2110 Jamestown Rd., Williamsburg/1368 Colonial Pkwy., Jamestown; 888-593-4682 or 757-253-4838; www.historyisfun.org. Clear your day for the exhibits, outdoor living museum, archaeology dig, archaearium and more at the two sites. The settlement is open daily and costs $16. Historic Jamestowne: $14 for seven-day pass.

Colonial Williamsburg, 101 Visitor Center Dr. (visitor center); 800-447-8679; www.history.org. Pick up a map and a “RevQuest: Save the Revolution!” packet at the visitor center. Take the free shuttle or follow the walking trail to Revolutionary City. $41.95 for single-day ticket.


Washington Post Service

I received the message from the revolutionary agent who, despite her 18th century dress and speech, had no time for period delivery services. When America’s freedom is at stake, and the park is closing in a few hours, we patriots cannot idle the hourglass waiting for a carrier pigeon or a horseback-riding courier.

My phone bleeped with the next clue in the interactive game “RevQuest: The Lion and the Unicorn.” Ever loyal to the American Revolution and my iPhone, I did as I was told. I could not fail Colonial Williamsburg, as it had not failed me.

My last visit to the Virginia attraction, about 10 years ago, had not fared so well. Let’s just say that after a wearisome butter-churning demonstration, I switched to margarine. I also contracted a phobia of costumed actors.

But the Williamsburg of yesterday is not the same as the Williamsburg of today. History, thank my lucky stars, did not repeat itself on my most recent visit.

Over the years, Colonial Williamsburg and the satellite attractions of Yorktown, Jamestown and Busch Gardens have expanded and evolved, creating new experiences that will surprise return guests. Of course, you can still see the Smiths (tin, silver, black) laboring over their craft, and I assume the cook is still assaulting her butter. But you will also find the new in the old — text-messaging with revolutionaries, for example.

To discover Williamsburg 2.0, I returned a few weeks ago with an open mind, a rejuvenated sense of curiosity and a charged cellphone — because despite the progress, Colonial Williamsburg does not have outlets.

The settlement

Significant birthdays require over-the-top presents. You wouldn’t give your 99-year-old uncle a striped tie for his centennial, would you?

In 2007, Jamestown Settlement commemorated the 400th anniversary of the community’s founding by enlarging and updating the state-operated museum, which originally opened in 1957 for the 350th milestone. The gift to America’s first permanent English colony included new exhibits and galleries inside and out. A series of artifact-packed rooms, for instance, delves into the lifestyles and traditions of the English, the Powhatan Indians and African cultures; you can sample the Algonquian language, a form of which the Powhatan people spoke, and stroll down a mock English lane complete with tenements and barking dogs. The renovation plan also injected more juice into its life-size re-creations of James Fort, a Powhatan village and a landing dock with replicas of the ships that crossed the Atlantic, landing in Virginia in 1607.

At the Powhatan village, a female interpreter dressed in tawny animal skins explained that the setting was based on a 400-year-old community that lived five miles down the road. She encouraged me to step inside any of the five houses on display, where the interior decor was wall-to-wall road kill. Outside one abode, a woman sewed tiny shells onto an animal hide dress that she had created from scratch. Across the way, a woman tended a garden. She was all alone — where were all of the Powhatan men? — so I gave her a hand with the digging. I pushed the soil around using a long wooden staff with a knobby end, hoping the tractor would be invented within the next five minutes.

The village seamlessly segues into the dock and the three vessels, Susan Constant, Godspeed and Discovery, resting quietly on the James River. Depending on the hour, you can help raise or lower the sail and the flag. Or you can just board a ship and listen to engrossing stories about the 144-day crossing.

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