Mom’s matzo balls

 

David Bracha may be chef-owner of two Miami restaurants, but like Jewish sons everywhere, he lets his mother do the cooking at Passover

Appetizer

Charoset

3/4 cup walnuts

1 cup pitted dates, coarsely chopped

1 apple, peeled, cored and coarsely chopped

Honey to taste

Sweet wine to taste

Place all ingredients in a food processor and process to a thick puree. Makes about 2 cups.

Source: Adapted from Lea Junger

Note: Ingredients are too variable for nutritional analysis.


Dumpling

Matzo Balls

4 large eggs

1/4 cup oil

3/4 to 1 teaspoon salt

Pepper to taste

1 cup matzo meal

Finely chopped parsley

Beat eggs in a bowl. Beat in oil, 1/4 cup water, salt and pepper. Add the matzo meal and mix well. Refrigerate for 1 to 2 hours.

Form balls a little larger than walnuts, and drop them into boiling water (or, better yet, into boiling chicken stock). Reduce heat and cover pot. Simmer for 40 to 45 minutes. Take one ball out and check for doneness. Makes about 8 balls.

Source: Adapted from Lea Junger

Per ball: 225 calories, 86 percent calories from fat, 10 g fat, 2 g saturated fat, 6 g monounsaturated fat, 106 mg cholesterol, 7 g protein, 27 g carbohydrates, 4 g fiber, 326 mg sodium.


Soup

Chicken Soup

1 whole chicken (preferably a hen) cut into quarters

1 carrot

3 ounces celeriac

1 parsley root

1 medium-size onion, with skin on

2 garlic cloves

Pinch turmeric

Kosher salt to taste

Chopped fresh parsley and fresh dill

Rinse hen under cold water. Place in a pot large enough to hold hen and vegetables. Add all the remaining ingredients except the parsley and dill. Add cold water to cover. Bring to a boil, lower heat to a simmer, and cook for up to 3 hours.

Cool soup, skim fat and reheat. Add fresh chopped parsley and dill just before serving with matzo balls. Makes 8 servings.

Source: Adapted from Lea Junger

Per serving: 291 calories, 61 percent calories from fat, 19 g fat, 6 g saturated fat, 8 g monounsaturated fat, 118 mg cholesterol, 24 g protein, 3 g carbs, 0.5 g fiber, 104 mg sodium.


Appetizer

Sephardic Fish in Tomato Sauce

3 to 4 tablespoons olive oil

1 Spanish onion, chopped fine

1 Serrano chile, seeded and chopped fine

1 (28-ounce) can San Marzano tomatoes, chopped (reserve liquid)

1/4 cup chopped cilantro

1/4 cup chopped parsley

Juice of one lemon

2 whole red mullets (about 1 1/2 pounds total; may substitute snapper fillets)

Kosher salt and pepper to taste

Heat oil in a sauté pan, and sauté onions and chile until soft. Add tomatoes and half their liquid, herbs and lemon juice. Bring to a simmer. Taste for salt and pepper.

Add fish, cover pan tightly (use foil if necessary) and simmer on low heat for 8 to 10 minutes. Check after several minutes; if tomatoes are dry, add more of the reserved liquid. When fish is done, it should be “tender falling apart.” Serve at room temperature. Makes 4 servings.

Source: Adapted from Lea Junger

Per serving: 396 calories, 46 percent calories from fat, 20 g fat, 4 g saturated fat, 12 g monounsaturated fat, 83 mg cholesterol, 36 g protein, 19 g carbohydrates, 3 g fiber, 675 mg sodium


Special to The Miami Herald

“We invite different people to celebrate Passover with us from year to year,” begins David Bracha, chef-owner of Miami’s River Seafood & Oyster Bar and Oak Tavern. “Some are Jewish, some not, but they are consistently blown away by my mother’s chicken soup with matzo balls.”

The 49-year old Bracha fondly recalls the family Seders of his childhood in the Canarsie section of Brooklyn, but his mother now lives in Delray Beach, his father in Los Angeles and his sister in Cleveland.

These days, he and his wife Joan host a rather intimate Passover dinner at their Buena Vista home. Joining them around the table are their 11-year-old son, 7-year-old daughter, his mom, sometimes his sister, and usually a few friends. But you won’t find this accomplished culinarian in the kitchen chopping the charoset or bitter herbs (maror). Like Jewish sons everywhere, he lets Mom do the cooking.

What differentiates Passover Seder from other celebratory feasts is a narrative, read from the Haggadah, that connects the symbolic foods of the meal with the story of the Jews’ enslavement in and Exodus from Egypt. Charoset, for example, a diced or pureed mix of apples, nuts, honey and wine, represents the mortar used by Israelites to build structures for their Egyptian masters. The maror is meant to remind diners of the bitterness of the servitude. Put maror and charoset together between two pieces of matzo and you’ve got a “Hillel Sandwich.” Add a little mayonnaise and you’ll likely have to wait a long time before getting invited to another Seder.

But the meal is likewise about sustaining Judaism from generation to generation through familial and cultural ties. David’s wife is Irish Catholic, and they are not religious, but “It is important for us that our children understand their heritage, and more importantly, the stories and history.” Of equal significance, “It forces us to slow down and have a familiar, comfortable meal with friends and family.”

Nothing is more comfortable than the chicken matzo ball soup. His mother, Lea Junger, learned the recipe from her mother growing up in Berno, Czechoslovakia, but “it goes way back.”

“She does several things differently than what we are taught as chefs,” Bracha says. “For instance, she doesn’t skim the soup, and she leaves the skin on the onion, which gives it a golden color.”

His mom also supplements the traditional carrots and celery with celeriac and parsley root (“difficult to find here, though common in Europe”). She finishes the broth with a bolt of freshly chopped parsley and dill just before serving.

“Definitely a ‘floater,’ ” Bracha says when asked which side of the court his mom’s matzo ball lands on in the “floater” vs. “sinker” volley. The debate is to Jewish women what meringue vs. whipped cream is to those Key lime pie makers, except it’s been going on for centuries.

Sinker aficionados seek small, dense kneidlachs (dumplings). Those in the float camp aim for more ethereal spheres, and towards this end employ beaten egg whites and/or club soda, or perhaps tinker with the proportion of egg to matzo meal (less of the latter lends lightness). David reveals his mom’s trick for a buoyant ball: “Refrigerate the batter for an hour or two, so the matzo meal absorbs all the liquid.”

The soup and most other Seder staples are prepared in traditional Ashkenazi style at the Bracha home. But because the chef’s father, Sabi Bracha, hails from Tel Aviv, some items on the table, such as an appetizer of red mullet stewed with tomatoes, herbs and spices, speak of the Sephardic influence on that side of the family.

Bracha acts as Seder sommelier. “There are better kosher wines today than ever before,” he says, and, being tactful, doesn’t even mention Manishewitz by name. For chicken matzo ball soup and charoset, he recommends “something with a touch of sweetness, like a gewurtztraminer or riesling.” For the mullet, he would choose “a light-bodied red chinon, or even a sherry.”

While chef Bracha won’t be cooking the holiday dinner in his house, during Passover week he will be preparing chicken soup with matzo balls at his new Oak Tavern restaurant in the Design District.

“Just the way my mom makes it,” he says with pride.

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