Quick Trips

Quick trips: Ohio

Hocking Hills stir wild passions

 

Going to Hocking Hills

Getting there: AirTran flies nonstop from Fort Lauderdale to Columbus, and American flies nonstop from Miami in about two hours, 40 minutes. Roundtrip airfare starts at $234 from Fort Lauderdale, $269 from Miami. The Hocking Hills region is located 40 miles southeast of Columbus.

Information: www.1800Hocking.com, 800-462-5464.

WHERE TO STAY

Inn & Spa at Cedar Falls, 21190 State Rt. 374, Logan; 800-653-2557; innatcedarfalls.com. Choices at this green-minded bed and breakfast include 9 guest rooms from $135 a night, 12 cottages from $189 and 5 cabins from $209.

Glenlaurel, 14940 Mt. Olive Rd., Rockbridge; 800-809-7378; glenlaurel.com. This 140-acre estate features walking trails, rock cliffs, waterfalls, accommodations with fireplaces and two-person whirlpools, and an elegant restaurant. 13 rooms, suites and crofts from $147 a night and 6 cottages from $287. Packages available.

A Georgian Manner, 29055 Evans Rd., Logan; 740-380-9567; georgianmanner.com. Restored 1840s farmhouse decorated with antiques and fine art. One suite, four rooms, two of which share baths; lake views. From $105.

WHERE TO EAT

Brass Ring, 14405 Country Club Ln., Logan; 740-385-8966; www.brassringgolfclub.com/restaurant.htm. Chef Moe Michels has made this a popular locals’ hangout with zesty twists on traditional fare made with locally sourced ingredients. Lunch from $6.95, dinner from $8.95.

Inn at Cedar Falls, 21190 State Rt. 374, Logan; 800-653-2557; innatcedarfalls.com. Dining room based in a double log cabin originally built in the 1840s. Wine, craft beer and spirit ‘TasteInn’ dinners and other events several times a month. Casual breakfast and lunch; dinner from $20.

Village Bakery & Cafe, 270 E. State St., Athens; 740-594-7311; dellazona.com. A locals’ choice for soups, salads, wood-fired pizza and homemade desserts using local organic produce. Breakfast pizza from $3.50, lunch and dinner from $8.95.

WHAT TO DO

Hocking Hills State Park, 740-385-6842; dnr.state.oh.us/tabid/743/default.aspx. Hike areas throughout the 2,356-acre park such as Old Man’s Cave, Ash Cave and Conkles Hollow, which has handicap-accessible trails. Website lists free guided hikes and provides trail maps. Free admission.

Moonshine Festival, May 23-27; downtown New Straitsville; 740-394-2239; ofea.org/view.php?fest_id=4. Family-friendly activities from local food, crafts and live music and still demonstrations. Free.

Columbus Washboard Factory Museum, 14 Gallagher Ave, Logan; 740-380-3828; columbuswashboard.com. The factory and museum tour makes a fun stop. Adults $4, ages 12-18 $1, children under 12 free. The free Washboard Music Festival will be held June 13-15.

Pencil Sharpener Museum, 13178 State Rt. 664 S., Logan; 1800hocking.com/whattodo/pencil_sharpener_museum. Located in a tiny cottage at the Hocking Hills welcome center, the collection features an estimated 3,400 unique, entertaining artifacts. Free.


Special to The Miami Herald

When “bouquet” and “beer” appear in the same sentence, you know these aren’t the hills of hillbillies.

Something in the Hocking Hills gives folks crazy dreams and the energy to achieve them. Maybe it’s the water. Or the caves. Or the air crisp enough to buff your face to a childhood glow.

One native quit a Hollywood career to come home and brew sipping beers presented in corked wine bottles. A couple built an inn from reclaimed country cabins and junked materials. A Native American storyteller performs his stagecraft in caves. Instead of waiting for balmy days, the locals mass for frozen waterfall hikes and rainy-day romps around cliffs and gorges. Want to make washboards and dedicate a museum to them? That’ll work. And where else can a moonshine festival — with hooch-making demonstrations using an authentic still — an annual five-day family event?

Here in the hills and hollows of southeastern Ohio, the dreamers are doers and what’s done is worth savoring.

In the spring, after the waterfalls thaw, the region gears up for wildflower hikes, ghost talks, Flaming Torchlight canoe rides, New Moon Glow float trips, May’s Moonshine Festival and the Washboard Music Festival in June.

The vistas throughout sprawling Hocking Hills State Park would have wowed hobbits. Rolling Appalachian foothills ensconce cliffs, waterfalls, massive slump blocks that cracked off cliffs, bubbling creeks, and caves where Indians performed rituals and loners dwelled.

Blackhand sandstone fortifies the cliffs, and honeycomb weathering pocks the huge rocks; we’re seeing a cross-section of an ancient sandbar once covered by an ocean. Now the landscape’s fed by the Hocking River and populated by owls, deer and wild turkeys. The gorge’s microclimate nurtures plants and animals uncommon in this part of America, such as the yellow-crowned Kinglet, a sociable bird. Hikers appreciate the natural air-conditioning provided by the sandstone’s fissures and caverns. The caves, called recess caves, are not underground caverns but above-ground openings in cliff walls carved by centuries of erosion.

Tagging along on one of naturalist Pat Quackenbush’s free guided hikes to Old Man’s Cave, I imagine the namesake hermit drifting to sleep, warmed by his hound dogs. This shelter, carved by nature, runs 200 feet wide, 50 feet tall and 75 feet deep; it’s recessed in a cliff rising 85 feet above a stream. The hermit lived here for years in the early 1800s until one wintry day, cracking ice with his rifle, he accidentally shot himself in the head.

Grandma Gatewood Trail, named for a more fortunate Appalachian Mountains wayfarer, connects Old Man’s Cave with show-stopping Cedar Falls and Ash Cave, an even larger cave, in a 10-mile loop.

Old Man’s Creek cascades over ledges, then plunges 40 feet over the Upper Falls. Downstream, the flow swirls around Devil’s Bathtub. The cool, misty atmosphere suits the slender, proud hemlocks for which Cedar Falls would have been named had the namers not confused tree species.

The great outdoors is counterbalanced by indoor allure. The Inn at Cedar Falls sprouted from the imagination of Ellen Grinsfelder’s mother and the resourcefulness of Ellen and husband Terry Lingo. The innkeepers reclaimed and remodeled cabins and farm structures for their buildings, renovating and expanding them using recycled materials. Newspaper insulated walls, scrap wood became chairs, old pallets undergirded floors, fiber remnants turned into carpets. “Bootstrap green,” Ellen calls it.

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