In the past 10 years or so, mineral makeup has morphed from a health-food store item to full-fledged phenomenon.

Today, just about every line from the drugstore to the department store is offering some foundation with “mineral” in the label, but it takes more than semantics to get a real mineral makeup.

In essence, mineral makeup is comprised solely of mineral-based pigments—mainly titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, mica and iron oxide—which is good news for sensitive and reactive skins. With limited ingredients and a lack of fillers, preservatives and synthetic ingredients, the risk of irritation is close to none. And because there are no oils, this is good news for acne-prone skin with pores that are easily clogged.

These minerals leave a naturally radiant finish, and many women find that mineral makeup has better staying power than their conventional counterparts, especially in humid climates. These foundations may also provide a little extra sun protection (surely you’ve seen titanium dioxide and zinc oxide on sunscreen labels).

The mineral content, however, is not enough to skip your daily SPF. In fact, recent new rules put forth by the FDA say that powders can no longer claim they provide SPF. Even more, the zinc oxide found in most mineral makeups can have an anti-inflammatory effect, so mineral foundations may actually help improve your skin.

Years ago, mineral foundations only came in loose powder forms, but today you can find liquids and pressed powders as well. One of the biggest complaints about mineral makeup (especially from women with dry skin or wrinkles) is that it can settle into creases. You can sidestep this potential pitfall by using a primer or trying a liquid formulation. Many companies have gone beyond foundation and have introduced mineral-based blushes, eyeshadows and other color products.

But it’s important to read labels to make sure you’re really getting mineral makeup.