Book excerpt: Like life itself, nurturing begins with seeds


Meet the author

Ellen Kanner will discuss her book, ‘Feeding the Hungry Ghost: Life, Faith and What to Eat for Dinner’ (New World Library, $15.95), at 6 p.m. Thursday at the Museum of Art, 1 E. Las Olas Blvd., Fort Lauderdale;


Seed Cake

Vegan baking, like life, is about balance and compromise. I’ve swapped the traditional ingredients in this recipe for others that are whole and plant-based and obtainable. I’ve also swapped the traditional caraway seeds for anise. Like caraway, they are excellent for digestion, but are more mellow in the mouth. They join a symphony of other seeds for a moist cake of haunting fragrance and flavor.

1 cup unsweetened soy or hemp milk

2 tablespoons ground flax seeds (also known as flax meal)

2 tablespoons ground chia seeds

2 teaspoons whole anise seeds

1 1/2 cup whole wheat flour

1 teaspoon baking soda

1 teaspoon baking powder

Zest and juice of 1 lemon

3/4 cup evaporated cane sugar

1/3 cup hemp, flax or canola oil

1/2 cup apple sauce

1/3 cup raisins

Heat oven to 350 degrees.

Lightly grease an 8-inch round cake pan or a 9-by-5-inch loaf pan.

In a small bowl, combine soy milk with flax, chia and anise seeds. Stir lightly to combine and let sit while you assemble the other ingredients.

In a large bowl, sift together whole wheat flour, baking soda and baking powder. Grate in lemon zest.

In another bowl, mix together sugar, oil, apple sauce and lemon juice. Add to dry mixture, along with the soy milk, which, thanks to the seeds, will have thickened madly. Stir together, then fold in the raisins.

Pour into prepared pan and bake for 45 minutes or until the cake is golden, puffed and a tester inserted in the center comes away crumb-free. You can also give it a gentle poke with a finger. It springs back perfectly when baked through.

Remove from oven and let cool. Wrapped well and refrigerated, it keeps for several days.

Serve as dessert or as an anytime restorative with a coffee or tea. Makes 8 servings.

Source: Adapted from “Feeding the Hungry Ghost: Life, Faith and What to Eat for Dinner” by Ellen Kanner (New World Library).

Per serving: 284 calories (35 percent from fat), 11.7 g fat (1 g saturated, 5.9 g monounsaturated), 0 cholesterol, 5.7 g protein, 43.7 g carbohydrates, 4.8 g fiber, 193 mg sodium.

Special to The Miami Herald

Miami Herald columnist Ellen Kanner has a new book of essays and vegan recipes, “Feeding the Hungry Ghost: Life, Faith and What to Eat for Dinner” (New World Library, $15.95). Here is an excerpt.

Seeds are where it all begins. They promise the start of things. They’re super-concentrated sources of energy.

I look at everything growing in my backyard, from my newly sprouted purslane to the 10-foot firebush exploding with firecracker-red flowers, favorite of zebra long-wing butterflies and hummingbirds, to our 35-foot live oak, which stretches its lanky, leafy limbs out to provide shelter and canopy. They all began as seeds — everyday magic.

Nature makes that kind of magic easy. You drop a seed in the dirt, cover it with soil, give it some water, leave the sun and the seed to make friends with each other, and honey, you’re in business.

But then there’s the fine print. Firebush needs direct sun and can handle shallow, sandy South Florida soil. It’s a tough native. Purslane is supposed to be a weed and thus thrive like a weed, but mine’s anemic, timid, probably suffering from sunstroke. Even weeds have their needs, and purslane prefers filtered sunlight. A seed only fulfills its superhero potential if it gets proper nurturing.

Then there are your more metaphoric seeds (and I do love a metaphor), the new beginnings life offers you — the joy of a new job, a new love, a new home, a new baby, a new year. Such new beginnings endow you with all the energy of a seed. You’re awakening, feeling your way, tentatively reaching your roots into the soil. These kinds of seeds are times of hope; but they’re always times of change, and change is tough.

Here’s what’s even tougher — you don’t always get to choose a new beginning. Losing your job or breaking up with your partner wouldn’t make anyone’s list of Top 10 fave life events, but suddenly, there you are, in it up to your adenoids. That seed generates an energy of its own — like a tornado, it rips up your life and knocks you on your ass. It takes a herculean effort to roll out of bed in the morning. Where’s the joy in that, ace?

And while it seems to be raining seeds around you, both the happy kind and the seeds you wouldn’t even wish on your ex, think of yourself as a seed, too — a really gorgeous, spectacular, one-of-a-kind seed. But your gorgeousness can’t come into full flowering unless you, too, get the nurturing you need.

For me, it means rooting myself in my community, being part of the initiatives that bring real food and real people together. Sometimes, I confess, I need to force myself to attend this meeting, that event. But I’m almost always better for it. The people I meet inspire me and energize me and take me in directions I didn’t know I wanted to go. You’re growing oyster mushrooms? Wow, how do you do that? How can I do that? You’re teaching children to cook? Can I volunteer? I’m lucky to be nourished by my native soil.

You know best what kind of metaphoric soil you need, where you feel your happiest, truest self, where your own strength is coaxed forth, where you can set down strong roots and lift your face to the sun.

Or maybe you don’t know. Maybe you’ve been so pelted with misery seeds, you barely know what you look like, let alone what you need. They say suffering is wonderfully character-building. I say you’ve got plenty of character as it is. I say whatever’s giving you grief should just get out of your way and get out of town. Until it does, though, you’re stuck. You’re going through hell, it’s taking every ounce of your strength, and you can’t quite see how you’re ever going to return to that blissful, faraway place called normal.

Start by nurturing yourself. A basic way to give yourself the care you need is by paying attention to what you eat and by making healthier choices for all concerned — for you, for the planet.

Seeds are an easy place to begin. While vegetables still have their detractors (Why? Why?), anyone can chomp on a handful of seeds. If you’re struggling, they’ll support you nutritionally and offer a sprinkle of badly needed cheer. If you’re happy, they’ll only make you happier. They offer a crunch that bespeaks indulgence, but with it come the phytonutrients and fats our bodies hunger for, the kind that give us a nice inner glow, no micro-dermabrasion required.

Some seeds we snarf — sunflower seeds, pepitas (pumpkin seeds).

Some seeds we use to impart deep flavor in cooking — cumin, cardamom, mustard, coriander, fennel, to name a few of my favorites.

Some we eat without even realizing what they are. All your legumes, from teensy red lentils to massive gigantes are, botanically speaking, seeds.

And some we mean to get around to trying, because we hear how tremendous they are for our health, yet we’re daunted by them — flax, chia and hemp come to mind.

Well, honey, your time has come. Whether you’re flourishing or faltering, you need more of these teensy guys in your life. Flax rules when it comes to omega-3s, those excellent fatty acids. Chia seeds are right up there in the omega-3 department, but they also have a fantastic amount of fiber and antioxidants. Ancient Aztec warriors thrived on them, and they were pretty tough guys. Hemp seeds, tiniest of all, offer more protein per ounce than any animal protein.

Use them individually or mixed together in a seedy cocktail as a topping for casseroles and roasted vegetables. We love texture. Add them to grain dishes, both sweet and savory — oatmeal isn’t oatmeal for me without a sprinkling of seeds. And chia and flax make excellent egg substitutes in baking. Mixing the seeds with a little water forms a bonding agent. Not only do you get the body-supporting benefit of the seeds; you get the nice, cohesive quality of eggs without the cholesterol and without ruffling a single chicken feather.

Miami writer Ellen Kanner is The Miami Herald’s Edgy Veggie columnist and Huffington Post’s Meatless Monday blogger. Contact her at

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