Mandolin Aegean Bistro is at 4312 NE Second Ave., Miami; 305-576-6066, mandolinmiami.com.
Main Dish
Shrimp Saganaki (Shrimp Sauté With Tomatoes and Feta)
Buy a chunk of good quality Greek feta and crumble it yourself. Koutsioukis says that most pre-crumbled feta is dry and tasteless. If using wine, pour it from the same bottle you’ll be serving with this dish. Serve this with baguette for dipping into the flavorful sauce.
3 tablespoons Greek olive oil
1 white onion, chopped
3 garlic cloves, crushed or finely chopped
2 cups peeled and chopped fresh tomatoes or canned San Marzano tomatoes
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon cracked pepper
1/2 teaspoon dried Greek oregano
1/2 teaspoon dried red pepper flakes (optional)
12 large Florida shrimp, peeled and deveined
1/4 cup dry white wine
Ouzo (optional)
1 cup crumbled Greek feta
1 cup chopped flat leaf parsley plus a sprig for garnish
Heat olive oil in a nonreactive large skillet over low heat. Add onions and garlic; sauté 3 to 5 minutes, until translucent.
Add tomatoes and bring to a simmer. Add salt, pepper, oregano and pepper flakes. Let simmer until sauce reduces and thickens. Add shrimp and cook 3 minutes or until shrimp turn pink.
Add wine and continue cooking 2 minutes. If desired, add a splash of ouzo.
Fold in feta and chopped parsley. Remove from heat and serve warm in a shallow serving dish garnished with a parsley sprig. Makes 4 servings.
Source: Adapted from Ahmet Erkaya and Anastasia Koutsioukis of Mandolin Aegean Bistro.
Per serving: 258 calories (63 percent from fat), 18.6 g fat (7 g saturated, 9.2 g monounsaturated), 64 mg cholesterol, 10.5 g protein, 11.2 g carbohydrates, 2.2 g fiber, 1,030 mg sodium.
Salad
Village Salad (Horiatiki Salata)
This is a great dish to showcase Florida tomatoes that are now in season. Out of season, Koutsioukis uses Campari tomatoes. Greek feta can be found in the cheese counters of better supermarkets. Try to find one packaged in brine. If the cheese is not packed in brine and seems dry, refresh it by storing the cheese in salt water with a dash of milk, suggests Koutsioukis. And use a Greek olive oil such as the Cretan, which they sell at Mandolin.
4 to 6 ripe tomatoes, roughly chopped
1 cucumber, peeled, seeded and cubed
1/4 small onion, thinly sliced
1/2 green bell pepper, cored, seeded and thinly sliced
Sea salt, to taste
1 (7-ounce) slab Greek feta, crumbled or cubed
1/2 cup pitted Kalamata olives
1 teaspoon dried Greek oregano
Cracked pepper, to taste
6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
Combine all vegetables in a serving bowl. Add salt, remembering that you will be putting salty feta cheese on top. Arrange feta and olives on top of vegetables. Sprinkle with oregano and pepper. Present the salad to toss with oil and vinegar at the table. Makes 4 servings.
Source: Adapted from Ahmet Erkaya and Anastasia Koutsioukis of Mandolin Aegean Bistro.
Per serving: 318 calories (72 percent from fat), 26 g fat (9.6 g saturated, 13.5 g monounsaturated), 44 mg cholesterol, 9.3 g protein, 13.5 g carbohydrates, 3.3 g fiber, 687 mg sodium.
Dessert
Greek Yogurt, Honey and Strawberry Parfaits
Koutsioukis collects vintage crystal wine glasses for serving this dish.
1 cup plain Greek yogurt (preferably Fage)
2 tablespoons whipping cream
3 tablespoons honey (preferably organic), divided
1 vanilla bean
3 tablespoons chopped walnuts
2 cups sliced fresh strawberries
Cinnamon for sprinkling (optional)
4 sprigs fresh mint
In a nonreactive bowl, combine yogurt, cream and 1 teaspoon honey. Slit the vanilla bean and use a butter knife to scrape the inside of the bean into the bowl. Mix until velvety.
On the bottom of each of 4 serving dishes, place 1 teaspoon honey. Add 1 teaspoon chopped nuts. Add a small portion of strawberries and a quarter of the yogurt mixture. Top each with a portion of the remaining strawberries, a sprinkling of nuts and a drizzle of honey.
Sprinkle with cinnamon and garnish each with a mint sprig . Makes 4 servings.
Source: Adapted from Ahmet Erkaya and Anastasia Koutsioukis of Mandolin Aegean Bistro.
Per serving: 202 calories (49 percent from fat), 11.6 g fat (5.1 g saturated, 1.3 g monounsaturated), 30.2 mg cholesterol, 3.7 g protein, 23.2 g carbohydrates, 1.8 g fiber, 29 mg sodium.
Salad
Pink Sultan (Beet Salad with Yogurt and Mint)
Koutsioukis prefers full-fat yogurt (she uses Fage), but you can use a lower fat version if you prefer.
Salt, to taste
3 red beets, washed and leaves removed
1/2 cup Greek yogurt or to taste
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
2 tablespoons coarse-chopped fresh mint
Fresh-ground pepper to taste
Fill a large pot two-thirds full with water. Add 1 teaspoon salt and bring to a boil over high heat. Add beets and boil about 30 minutes, until fork tender. Start checking the beets for doneness by piercing with a sharp knife after about 20 minutes. You want them to be tender yet firm; not mushy and overcooked.
Meanwhile, fill a large bowl with ice and water; set aside.
When the beets are cooked, drain them and, while still hot, slip off their skins. This is easy to do with your hands, a paring knife or with a paper towel. But be warned that the beet juice will stain your hands so you may want to use gloves.
Place peeled beets in the ice water bath. Let cool at least 10 minutes. Drain, dry and grate into a nonreactive bowl using the large holes of a box grater.
Add the yogurt, garlic, half the mint and a pinch salt and pepper.
Mix gently until the mixture turns a fuchsia color. For a creamier salad, add more yogurt. Transfer to a serving bowl and top with remaining mint. Makes 4 servings.
Source: Adapted from Ahmet Erkaya and Anastasia Koutsioukis of Mandolin Aegean Bistro.
Per serving: 48 calories (9 percent from fat), 0.5 g fat (0.3 g saturated, 0 monounsaturated), 2.5 mg cholesterol, 3.9 g protein, 7.4 g carbohydrates, 1.8 g fiber, 61 mg sodium.
Soon after they’d returned to New York, Erkaya took Koutsioukis out to dinner for her 34th birthday. He told her he had “two big things” to give her.
She expected an engagement ring, but instead she got an antique birthstone necklace and an even bigger surprise: Erkaya had signed the lease on a 590-square-foot space in the area of Miami they’d loved.
Her reaction was not what he had expected.
“She was none too amicable about it,” he says.
Opening a restaurant in Miami had seemed like a good idea while on vacation, but now he was talking major life changes.
What finally convinced her to join him in life and business was a folder he’d kept of every recipe they’d prepared together and every idea they’d had about running a restaurant.
“We were ready to go and now we had the brick and mortar to create our dream,” she says.
Coming to Miami, they were faced with refurbishing property that had been abandoned for three years and was run down and covered with graffiti. They labored from 6 a.m. to sundown renovating the 1939 building and filling it with gently used furnishings.
“The house always had a kind of energy we wanted to preserve,” Koutsioukis says. “We wanted to be careful we didn’t change its spirit or look.”
Soon after the restaurant opened, a customer gave them a black-and-white photo album that had been found in a dumpster when the property was deserted. The pictures proved they had returned the house to the way it used to be.
And in the back of the album were notes written in French on old postcards. When Erkaya translated them, he discovered the original owners had a similar love story to their own.
The man had persuaded his love to leave Montreal and come to Miami to marry him. He quit his job with Flagler’s railroad and together they lived in the house at the back of the property that today is part of the restaurant. They ran a beauty salon at the front of the property in what is the restaurant’s kitchen.
This year, Koutsioukis and Erkaya will spend Valentine’s Day at their restaurant. They’ll sit down to dinner together or with customers who have become good friends. And they’ll take time to toast their union with a glass of champagne.
“Every day is Valentine’s Day for us,” says Erkaya as Koutsioukis smiles and nods her head in total agreement.
You can reach Deborah S. Hartz-Seeley at debhartz@att.net.
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