It was the year of kale in 2012, with recipes for kale chips and kale salads everywhere. These dishes are beautiful departures from the cooked green, but all that kale has made me forget other greens.
Like escarole. In recent weeks I’ve rediscovered its slightly jagged leaves and mildly bitter flavor. It works well in salads, especially when balanced with milder, sweeter greens, such as leaf lettuce.
Slightly wilted, escarole makes a fine accompaniment to pasta. Here it gets backup from savory pancetta and sweet sauteed onions. The chopped greens are stirred in at the end so the pasta’s heat wilts the leaves without turning them into mush.