Outdoors

BIG CYPRESS NATIONAL PRESERVE

Seeing towering trees in Big Cypress worth the slog

 

Deep in the Big Cypress is a stand of huge cypress trees that are worth seeing if you can handle the tough, watery hike.

Hike to the Big Trees

The “Hike to the Big Trees” in the Big Cypress National Preserve will be conducted Feb. 2 and March 2 from the Oasis Visitor Center, 52105 Tamiami Trail East, Ochopee. The hike is free, but reservations are required. Call 239-695-4758 from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily.


scocking@miamiherald.com

The group of 11 hikers was sloshing through knee-deep, muddy water on the Florida Trail south of U.S. 41 when an elderly lady announced, almost casually, “Snake.”

The six at the front of the single-file line didn’t hear her, but everyone behind her did and stopped.

There, to the left of the trail next to a dwarf cypress, lay a brownish-black serpent with its fierce-looking head in the full, upright and locked position. It was not coiled to strike, but its countenance did not indicate happiness.

Big Cypress National Preserve ranger Melissa Hennerman stepped forward to identify the suspect.

“A water moccasin,” Hennerman said calmly. “Let’s step wide to the right and go around it.”

The water moccasin, otherwise known as the cottonmouth, is one of only six species of venomous snakes found in Florida. If a hiker were to be bitten here — about two miles from the nearest road — it would likely be a while before Miami-Dade Fire Rescue’s “Venom One” response unit could ride to the rescue.

But no one panicked. The hikers kept wary eyes on the snake — which fortunately stayed put — gave it a wide berth, and continued down the trail. When they caught up with the leaders, conducted by ranger Isobel Kalafarski, it turned out her group had walked right by without seeing it.

After a brief break to sip water, the entire group continued deeper into the cypress forest. No one mentioned heading for home.

The hikers were on a special ranger-led trek of about seven miles round-trip to reach Robert’s Lake Strand for the purpose of viewing a small stand of really tall cypress trees. The strand lies roughly halfway between U.S. 41 (Tamiami Trail) and the Loop Road terminus of the Florida Trail, which winds all the way up to the Panhandle. The “Hike to the Big Trees” is conducted only three times during the winter and is not for the faint of heart or weak of knees.

Hikers must be in pretty good shape for this long walk, which goes on rain or shine, hot or cold. Long pants, long sleeves, plenty of water and snacks, and rugged closed-toed running shoes or hiking boots are required — along with, most importantly, a stout walking stick, which the rangers handed out at the Oasis Visitor Center before the start of the hike.

The trail is nearly always knee-deep or higher in water, except in the driest of droughts, and is made of mud, broken limestone, cypress knees, and random roots. Its unevenness and unexpected deadfalls have been known to make trained fitness enthusiasts weep. Those who traverse it are constantly lurching around in a near tumble, saved only by their trusty wooden staffs.

Traveling slowly is beneficial for two reasons: you are less likely to break your ankle and you are more likely to spot wildflowers, such as the delicate violet petals of Glades lobelia, yellow blossoms of bladderwort, and colorful swamp daisies. And if you are trudging fast, you are almost guaranteed to miss orchids — such as the cow horn, butterfly and dingy star — peeping from the cypress boughs. These delicate plants which grow on trees are akin to lottery winners, Hennerman said, because they thrive only with the perfect mix of moisture, fungus, temperature and other key environmental factors.

Even walking fast, it is nearly impossible to miss the pineapple-like bromeliads dotting the tree trunks. They are seemingly everywhere at every height. But if your splashing footfalls are too loud, you’ll miss the Big Cypress soundtrack — the calls of red-shouldered hawks, pileated woodpeckers, ospreys and the softer tweets of songbirds.

The group took about four hours to reach a small hammock in the middle of a slough surrounded by ferns and cocoplums with enough dry ground for a sit-down picnic lunch. Beside the tiny island, a six-foot alligator lay on the bottom of the slough motionless, but its eyes were open. It never moved — nor blinked — while the hikers ate lunch.

Afterward, the group shouldered their day packs and waded waist-deep through Robert’s Lake Strand to the “big trees,” which stood hundreds of feet tall on wide trunks the size of tool sheds. Somehow these giant cypress had escaped South Florida’s logging boom, which felled most of their neighbors from the 1920s through the ’50s.

“Maybe they were just too hard to get to,” suggested ranger Jonathan Riner.

That comment drew a hearty, knowing laugh from the hikers.

Read more Outdoors stories from the Miami Herald

  •  

Tamarac bass guide Anthony Hunt holds up a nice largemouth he caught using a plastic frog in an Everglades canal.  As part of his guide service, he also caters lunch.

    Fishing

    Hungry anglers take gourmet trip

    Chef Anthony Hunt offers a combination of cooking and fishing.

  • Bonefish study

    Several factors suggested for bonefish decline

    A study contended that many possibilities might share the blame for the decline of a sport fish that is vital to the Florida Keys economy.

  • Outdoors notebook

    State and federal fisheries managers will hold four public workshops in South Florida in July and August to get your input on marine fish issues unique to this region. Members of the Florida Fish & Wildlife Conservation Commission, and the Gulf of Mexico and South Atlantic fishery management councils will host the sessions, featuring topics such as whether to manage yellowtail and mutton snapper regionally or separately in state and federal waters. Meetings will be held from 5 to 8 p.m. July 29 at the IGFA Hall of Fame & Museum in Dania Beach; July 30 at the Murray E. Nelson Government Center in Key Largo; July 31 at Key Colony Beach City Hall; and Aug. 1 at Harvey Government Center in Key West. For more information, email Marine@myFWC.com.

Get your Miami Heat Fan Gear!

Join the
Discussion

The Miami Herald is pleased to provide this opportunity to share information, experiences and observations about what's in the news. Some of the comments may be reprinted elsewhere on the site or in the newspaper. We encourage lively, open debate on the issues of the day, and ask that you refrain from profanity, hate speech, personal comments and remarks that are off point. Thank you for taking the time to offer your thoughts.

The Miami Herald uses Facebook's commenting system. You need to log in with a Facebook account in order to comment. If you have questions about commenting with your Facebook account, click here.

Have a news tip? You can send it anonymously. Click here to send us your tip - or - consider joining the Public Insight Network and become a source for The Miami Herald and el Nuevo Herald.

Hide Comments

This affects comments on all stories.

Cancel OK

  • Videos

  • Quick Job Search

Enter Keyword(s) Enter City Select a State Select a Category