Travel

At the end of the world: Antarctic Peninsula

 

On a cruise to Antarctica, surprises often occur due to ‘circumstances beyond control’

Going to Antarctica

Cost and transportation: Tourism season runs from November into late March. Several companies operate ships from the southern tip of South America to Antarctica, sometimes also calling at the Falkland and South Shetland islands. Trips most often leave from Ushuaia, Argentina, which can be reached via a three-hour flight from Buenos Aires. The voyages last from just over a week up to a month. Fares generally run from about $500 to more than $1,000 per day, per person, not counting airfare to Buenos Aires. The flight to Ushuaia generally is included in the cruise fare; after offering a town tour to passengers, the Fram charters a jet for their return to Buenos Aires.

Information: To learn more about the Fram, its sailing dates, cabin choices and fares, go to www.hurtigruten.com. To reduce the human impact, ships carrying more than 500 passengers are prohibited from staging any landings on Antarctica; this means you won’t see any familiar cruise lines offering Antarctica trips. But for companies other than Hurtigruten that visit the continent, speak with a travel agent or go online and type “Antarctica tourism” in a search engine.

THE FRAM

Launched in May 2007 by the Norwegian coastal voyages line Hurtigruten, Fram was designed to be an “expedition’’ vessel. The modern vessel sails the polar regions of Greenland, Norway and Antarctica.

The 353-foot-long ship carries a maximum of 318 passengers in 128 cabins. The six largest suites have balconies on the stern. The next two largest of the seven cabin categories include a double bed (or two singles), a love seat and comfortable reading chair, plus a writing desk and chair and plenty of storage space. Inside cabins may include pull-down beds from the walls. All cabins have mini-refrigerators, as well as TVs offering a few movie channels, the BBC and CNN. Cabin and bathroom lighting is excellent, including tiny spotlights for reading in bed. The bathrooms are snug, with a semi-circular shower.

The single restaurant, two lecture rooms, casual sitting area, Internet café, and bistro — with its free coffee, tea and freshly baked goods — are on one deck. A ship-wide observation lounge, with two 85-power spotting scopes and a dozen specially padded observation chairs, is on the top deck. True to its Scandinavian heritage, the Fram has two saunas. There are also two outdoor Jacuzzis and a small fitness area but no pool.

All breakfasts and lunches and about half of the dinners are buffet style.


Special to The Miami Herald

Just watching the penguins waddle along from side to side, or slide on their bellies down hills, or hop over some impediment brings smiles from everyone.

EMBARRASSED, BUT HONORED

Originally, I didn’t think our time ashore would be so rewarding. On the first landing, the 32-mph wind dropped the wind-chill to minus 28, or 60 degrees below freezing. Dense clouds hid the sun.

On the days when the weather and landscape were most challenging, or when we plowed through 30-foot waves, I would feel embarrassed to step into either of the Fram’s elevators.

In each was a 5-foot-tall headshot of one or the other of Norway’s most famed polar explorers, Roald Amundsen and Fridtjof Nansen. Each had sailed on wooden ships named the Fram — Norwegian for “forward.”

In the photographs, each man looked out with a weather-worn face and hard eyes. I felt they were challenging me for daring to come to Antarctica in so much comfort.

Those men, and other European and American explorers of more than a century earlier, came in too-fragile sailing ships, wearing animal skins over woolen clothes, without my ship’s redundant engines, and satellite links, without at least three hot entrees at every meal, without hot showers.

Those explorers were more than just courageous and hearty souls — they were risking their lives. And many of them lost that gamble.

So, finally, I felt privileged to have barely sampled what they had chosen to endure for months on Antarctica. Its magnificence does that to you.

Freelance writer Robert N. Jenkins is former travel editor of The Tampa Bay (formerly St. Petersburg) Times. His website is bobjenkinswrites.com.

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