Travel

Casablanca: Looking for the spirit of Rick’s Cafe

 

Casablanca nightlife

Rick’s Cafe may have been an invention of Hollywood’s iconic film “Casablanca,” which premiered 70 years ago, but Morocco’s largest city still has a great nightlife. Here are a few places worth checking out.

Rick’s Cafe: 248, Blvd. Sour Jdid, Ancienne medina; www.rickscafe.ma. Founded by an American expat, this bar and restaurant lovingly recreate the movie’s famous setting with live music and an extensive Moroccan and continental menu. Entrees from $15.

La Cigale: 10 Blvd. Brahim Roudani. Not only do Casablanca’s intellectuals like drinking here, but young activists do as well in the arched backroom that features an eclectic decor, an active jukebox and a friendly crowd.

Le Cabestan: 90 Blvd. de la Corniche; www.le-cabestan.com. Spend a night out with Casablanca’s rich and beautiful in this combination bar, lounge and restaurant set right on the crashing waves of the Atlantic. The crowd looks expensive and the menu is. Entrees from $22.

United Seamen’s Service: 118 Blvd. Moulay Abderrahmane. Originally built for U.S. sailors in 1962, this little gem hidden down by the port and train station features a beer garden, pool tables and comfort food like burgers, pizzas and even pork chops.

B Rock: 55 Blvd. de La Corniche; www.facebook.com/pages/B-ROCK/138602152861381. With a different act every night, from rock to reggae to stand-up comedy, this club is where Casablanca’s alternative crowd hangs out, talks politics and dances, with affordable drinks and less of the high-class attitude found elsewhere.


Associated Press

Getting into the fictional Rick’s wasn’t always easy. A curt shake of the head from Bogart was enough to tell the doorman when someone was persona non grata. Similarly, in modern Casablanca, where fancy neighborhoods often lie next to bidonvilles or slums, heavyset men in black suits stationed at restaurant doors also give would-be patrons the once-over.

The door scene is refreshingly absent at B-Rock, a club in the heart of the corniche strip that caters to Casablanca’s alternative crowd. It offers a quiet bar area with pool tables as well as a lively downstairs where bands play. One night, a male-female team belted out North African songs and Western pop hits to a casually dressed young crowd. A French-language song from a Berber songwriter segued into Lady Gaga’s Poker Face, followed by a fist-pumping classic from Metallica.

Many of the clientele are artists and musicians themselves. More than a few are involved in the February 20 pro-democracy movement, Morocco’s version of the Arab Spring, which organized demonstrations calling for political reform across the country last year.

Mohammed Merhari, who started B-Rock two years ago, tries to get different acts every night, from rock bands to electronic music to video art installations to reggae. As in Bogart’s cafe, between musical acts, there’s talk of politics.

“You have young people from the left or the far left and others who aren’t political at all and so there is the chance to hear and see debates among these people,” said Merhari.

B-Rock’s owner, however, cautions against coming to his club looking to recreate Hollywood’s Casablanca.

“We don’t do much jazz, we don’t have a piano and we don’t live in black and white,” he said, with a touch of Rick’s gruff humor from the movie. “This place is for young people who live in the 21st century. We live in color.”

Associated Press reporter Aziz El Yaakoubi contributed to this piece.

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