Florida Travel

Wilderness Waterway

Kayaking an adventure in the untamed Everglades

 
 

A chickee platform is one of the many places to camp along the 99-mile Wilderness Waterway in Everglades National Park.
A chickee platform is one of the many places to camp along the 99-mile Wilderness Waterway in Everglades National Park.
Matt Bergstrom / The Washington Post

Kayaking the Everglades

Access the Ten Thousand Islands wilderness area at Everglades National Park Gulf Coast Visitor Center, 815 Oyster Bar Lane; 239-695-3311; www.nps.gov/ever/planyourvisit.

Kayak and equipment rentals can be reserved at Ivey House Eco Adventures. Sea kayak with rudder $44 first day for guests and $55 non-guests; second and third days are $36 for guests and $45 non-guests.

Ivey House does not offer guided overnights but does have a three-hour guided kayak tour that is $99 for guests and $124 non-guests.

Back-country camping permits must be obtained at the park visitor center within 24 hours before departure. There’s a $10 permit fee plus $2 per person per night.

Information: www.nps.gov/ever

WHERE TO STAY

Rod and Gun Club, 200 Riverside Dr., Everglades City; 239-695-2101; www.evergladesrodandgun.com. Graceful old-fashioned waterfront lodge, like something out of Hemingway. Rooms from $110.

The Ivey House, 107 Camellia St., Everglades City; 877-567-0679; www.iveyhouse.com. This bed-and-breakfast is also charming but not directly on the water, with a variety of room types, from basic to semi-luxurious. Rooms from $99.

WHERE TO EAT

The Oyster House, Chokoloskee Causeway, Highway 29 South, Everglades City; 239-695-2073; www.oysterhouserestaurant.com. Classic old Florida fish house. Entrees start at $6.95.

Triad Seafood, 401 School Dr., Everglades City; 239-695-0722; www.triadseafoodmarketcafe.com. Unique family-owned seafood place with all-you-can-eat stone crabs served fresh off the boat (October through May). Fish entrees begin at $11.95; all-you-can-eat stone crab prices vary but were recently $36 per person.


Washington Post Service

I worried about my back. It went into spasm just a week before the scheduled start of a three-day trek through the Ten Thousand Islands on the Florida Everglades’ Wilderness Waterway. Even sitting at my computer for long stretches aggravated the tightness in my muscles. How would they hold up to hours of tough paddling while seated in the cramped cockpit of a kayak, followed by nights separated from the hard ground by nothing more than a thin sleeping pad?

I worried about the weather. The waterway, on Florida’s extreme southwestern edge, is just what its name implies: a watery tropical wilderness without shelter or even dry land for miles at a stretch. A wind storm or, heaven forbid, lightning would be no small problem.

I worried about the permitting process. The campsites on the 99-mile-long waterway, part of Everglades National Park, are widely spread and have limited occupancy, allotted on a first-come, first-served basis. But the earliest you can reserve is 24 hours in advance, in person at the park office, so it was impossible to plan the trip before it began. Given that adverse winds and tides could turn a four-hour paddle between campsites into a desperate 12-hour struggle to make dry land before dark, putting together an itinerary could be a high-stakes gamble.

I worried about provisioning. The sea kayaks we’d be renting were narrow torpedoes of boats, with tiny forward and aft storage compartments that would have to hold tents, sleeping gear, clothes, food and five gallons of water per person.

I worried about bugs. My old friend Gregg, a Miami native, had just been out in Big Cypress Swamp and reported the bugs as homicidal. When I asked him for an anti-bug strategy, he responded, “Suicide.”

My wife, who most emphatically was not coming on a trip where the nearest plumbing would be miles away, focused her anxiety on reports of escaped pythons, whose population had begun to explode in the ‘Glades. I knew that, among all the potential dangers we might face, constriction by giant snakes ranked in the “not going to happen” category. Far more realistic was the possibility of getting lost. The waterway is short on man-made markers, and the endless chains of mangrove islands and bays create a labyrinth, with jigs and jags in the apparent coastline that make the difference between a pass and a dead-end impossible to distinguish even up close. I was planning on navigating with a two-decade-old sea chart and a compass, a task made more challenging still by having to study the chart from the cockpit of a moving, wind-and-wave-buffeted kayak.

In the days before departure, I lay awake strategizing, woke up realizing that I’d left something essential off the provisions list, spent the day obsessively hunting for tips in online discussions among waterway vets.

Seem like a lot of anxiety over a “vacation”?

No doubt, but I’ve learned that often the trips that require the most effort deliver the greatest rewards. This trip, a self-propelled journey into one of the world’s great remaining wildernesses, could become a nurturing memory for years to come. To be taking it with two old college friends I’d last traveled with in 1973 and with my 21-year-old son, Sam, who had miraculously consented to sacrifice part of his spring break to paddle with a gaggle of geezers, upped the ante to once-in-a-lifetime opportunity.

Read more Florida Travel stories from the Miami Herald

  •  

The Norton Museum of Art commissioned Dan Parker, a LEGO certified professional, to construct landmarks, including the Seattle Space Needle, from LEGO bricks. The structures are part of the exhibit "Block by Block: Inventing Amazing Architecture" which runs this summer (2013) at the Norton.

    Florida: Norton art museum hosts exhibit of LEGO structures

    At Legoland parks, builders construct entire city skylines of LEGO bricks. In Palm Beach, the Norton Museum of Art saw art in the structures and commissioned Dan Parker, a LEGO-certified professional, to use the bricks to construct landmark buildings from around the world. The structures are part of the exhibit Block by Block: Inventing Amazing Architecture, which opens Thursday and runs through Oct. 20.

  •  

Blue Spring State Park has only six cabins, so a stay here has to be reserved well in advance.

    Florida State Parks cabins

    Lodgings that take you back to nature

    Central Florida is famous for a lot of features, but your first association probably isn’t “cabins in the woods.”

  •  

Guests visit the penguin habitat section of Antarctica: Empire of the Penguin, the new attraction at SeaWorld Orlando.

    Central Florida: theme park round-up

    New this year in Orlando are penguins, Krusty Burgers, Autobots and Decepticons, Chima animal warriors and a home for the Disney princesses

Miami Herald

Join the
Discussion

The Miami Herald is pleased to provide this opportunity to share information, experiences and observations about what's in the news. Some of the comments may be reprinted elsewhere on the site or in the newspaper. We encourage lively, open debate on the issues of the day, and ask that you refrain from profanity, hate speech, personal comments and remarks that are off point. Thank you for taking the time to offer your thoughts.

The Miami Herald uses Facebook's commenting system. You need to log in with a Facebook account in order to comment. If you have questions about commenting with your Facebook account, click here.

Have a news tip? You can send it anonymously. Click here to send us your tip - or - consider joining the Public Insight Network and become a source for The Miami Herald and el Nuevo Herald.

Hide Comments

This affects comments on all stories.

Cancel OK

  • Videos



  • Quick Job Search

Enter Keyword(s) Enter City Select a State Select a Category