Quick Trips

New Orleans

Quick trips: Humble po’boy gains cult standing in The Big Easy

 
 

The po'boy sandwich has gained cult status in New Orleans.
The po'boy sandwich has gained cult status in New Orleans.
Patrick Semansky / ASSOCIATED PRESS

Houston Chronicle

•  Liuzza’s by the Track: Not to be confused with Liuzza’s Mid-City restaurant, this modest restaurant and bar sits only steps from New Orleans Fair Grounds Race Course, hence the name. The kitchen is known for its barbecue shrimp po’boy. Not really barbecued, the shrimp are poached in a lavish bath of butter and spices and stuffed in a hollowed French bread pistolette. Just as good, if not better, is the fried shrimp po’boy, expertly cooked and pristinely dressed. Mobbed during the New Orleans Jazz and Heritage Festival, which takes place on the race course fairgrounds, Liuzza’s is otherwise a sweet neighborhood joint with good food. 1518 N. Lopez, 504-218-7888. Sandwiches from $5.95 to $11.95.

•  Domilise’s Po-Boy & Bar: Regarded by many as the queen of the po’boys, this Uptown shop sports a kitchen so small it’s almost impossible to believe it can keep up with the hungry lines that form each day. Fried shrimp, fried oysters and roast beef are the standard bearers here, but don’t discount the cheeseburger po’boy or the smoked hot sausage. The hot sauces and mustards here further distinguish Domilise’s in the taste department. Lovably homely and seriously needing a paint job, Domilise’s is one of the most authentic slices of New Orleans you can get. And the po’boys are perfection. 5240 Annunciation St., 504-899-9126. Sandwiches from $7.50 to $16.

•  Tracey’s: Order at a window, grab a beer, take a seat and drink it all in. There’s more to this sports bar than meets the eye. It is involved in one of the city’s great po’boy rivalries with its neighbor, Parasol’s Bar & Restaurant. Here’s the short story: The owners of Parasol’s, long known for their roast beef po’boy, sold the business to out-of-towners in 2010. This was not welcome news to Jeff Carreras who had operated Parasol’s for a dozen years. So Carreras took his staff and his roast beef recipe and opened Tracey’s, only a block from Parasol’s. Locals are arguing about who has the better po’boy. 2604 Magazine St.; 504-899-2054, traceysnola.com. Sandwiches from $5.50 to $11.50.

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