Travel

Memories of war

 

The National WWII Museum showcases tales of terror and bravery

National World War II Museum

Where: 945 Magazine St. (entrance at Andrew Higgins Drive), New Orleans.

Hours: 9 a.m.-5 p.m. daily. Closed Mardi Gras Day, Thanksgiving, Christmas Eve and Christmas.

Admission: $21; $18 ages 65-79; $12 (ages 5-12 and 80 and up and students and active or retired military and spouse with ID); free for military in uniform. Show-only and museum-and-show tickets available $5-$23. Parking $6 at adjacent visitor lot on Camp Street.

Information: 504-528-1944, www.nationalww2museum.org

DINING & ENTERTAINMENT

 The main museum building contains a counter-service cafe next to the gift shop with oversized hot dogs, sandwiches and what it bills as “homemade’’ Spam. Unless you’re ravenously hungry and in a hurry, it’s best to save your appetite for the full-scale restaurant in the building across Andrew Higgins Drive that houses the theater for the Tom Hanks’ produced-and-narrated 4-D film, “Beyond All Boundaries’’ (screened 10 a.m.-4 p.m. daily with additional 5 p.m. show on Fridays and Saturdays, tickets range from $5 for kids 4 and under to $14). The restaurant, called The American Sector, has a huge bar flanked by anquettes graced with glamorous black-and-white portraits of wartime USO stars. The gourmet dishes, including things like lobster pot pie, are devised by well known chef John Besh.

A second dining area in this same annex is The Stage Door Canteen with 1940s-style live entertainment and a bountiful, tasty, all-you-can-eat buffet of foods prepared by Besh and his staff. Entertainment can range from a lunchtime revue of popular World War II tunes and patriotic songs by young women impersonating the Andrews Sisters and other USO entertainers of the era to a Sunday buffet brunch and show and Friday and Saturday evening dinner-and show playing through Nov. 24, “Jump Jive and Wail! The Music of Louis Prima.’’ Tickets range from $30 to $60. For information and reservations on the shows, call 504-528-1943 or go to www.stagedoorcanteen.org.

— Sue Mullin


ggarvin@MiamiHerald.com

The war’s brutality is not merely implied; it’s shockingly, appallingly explicit. Photos of burnt and battered corpses are plentiful. There are shots of Japanese soldiers using live Chinese prisoners for bayonet practice and the charred dead left in the rubble of the German city of Dresden after a massive Allied firebombing raid. Mountains of starved, gassed victims of Nazi concentration camps are underlined with the simple words of an American paratrooper who found them: “Now I know why I am here.”

A few sections of the museum are posted with warnings that they may be inappropriate for children, but the truth is that there’s hardly any part of it that doesn’t contain disturbing material. Practically nobody gets through it without some tears, Nick Mueller, the former University of New Orleans historian who’s the museum’s president and CEO, makes no apologies for its blunt approach.

“It was a brutal war,” he says. “People need to remember that this was a war that was a fight to the finish — for our nation, our democracy, for civilization itself. … Sixty-five million people died in that war, and two-thirds were civilians. That’s a big number, a horrific loss of life. Over 400,000 Americans died, many more were maimed and wounded. We don’t want to glorify that. War isn’t pretty.”

But the museum is not without its lighter moments, some ruefully so. A bombardier who flew on Gen. Jimmy Doolittle’s famous 1942 air raid on Tokyo — the first American attack on Japanese soil of the war, after a long string of military catastrophes — recounts bailing out of his shot-up plane over China, only to land in a rice paddy generously fertilized with human excrement. “It sounds funny now,” he indignantly declares, “but it ain’t funny out there, I can tell you.”

A newspaper comic strip published at the end of the war helpfully offers tips to Americans on how to tell apart their Chinese allies and their Japanese enemies: “Make them say lalapalooza.” A woman smiles wryly as she remembers her soldier husband’s vexed reaction at learning she had liberated herself from keeping house to work in a military factory. The gear their commanders issued soldiers before the D-Day invasion, including packages of Ultrex Platinum condoms (“troops found these useful in keeping sand and water out of rifle barrels,” an information panel observes with a straight face) and a tourism booklet titled Pocket Guide To France. A Rupert, one of the large dolls dressed like paratroopers and armed with firecrackers dropped into France in an attempt to confuse the German troops about the direction of the Allied attack. And the message to his girlfriend one American soldier painted on his empty tent in a British meadow before heading to his Normandy-bound ship: Sorry Jean Had To Go. Johnny.

The vast collection of material on D-Day even extends into what might termed alternative history — a handwritten speech that Allied commander Dwight Eisenhower carried in his pocket in case the Normandy invasion was thrown back into the sea: “If any blame or fault attaches to the attempt it is mine alone.” Fortunately, it never had to be delivered.

The enormous amount of D-Day content is a remnant of the museum’s origins. It was founded by the late University of New Orleans historian Stephen Ambrose, who while researching a book on the invasion learned that the thousands of landing craft that carried troops and tanks ashore that day had been designed and constructed by New Orleans shipbuilder Andrew Higgins. (Laten, when Eisenhower was president, he declared that “Higgins is the man who won the war for us.”)

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