Travel

Memories of war

 

The National WWII Museum showcases tales of terror and bravery

National World War II Museum

Where: 945 Magazine St. (entrance at Andrew Higgins Drive), New Orleans.

Hours: 9 a.m.-5 p.m. daily. Closed Mardi Gras Day, Thanksgiving, Christmas Eve and Christmas.

Admission: $21; $18 ages 65-79; $12 (ages 5-12 and 80 and up and students and active or retired military and spouse with ID); free for military in uniform. Show-only and museum-and-show tickets available $5-$23. Parking $6 at adjacent visitor lot on Camp Street.

Information: 504-528-1944, www.nationalww2museum.org

DINING & ENTERTAINMENT

 The main museum building contains a counter-service cafe next to the gift shop with oversized hot dogs, sandwiches and what it bills as “homemade’’ Spam. Unless you’re ravenously hungry and in a hurry, it’s best to save your appetite for the full-scale restaurant in the building across Andrew Higgins Drive that houses the theater for the Tom Hanks’ produced-and-narrated 4-D film, “Beyond All Boundaries’’ (screened 10 a.m.-4 p.m. daily with additional 5 p.m. show on Fridays and Saturdays, tickets range from $5 for kids 4 and under to $14). The restaurant, called The American Sector, has a huge bar flanked by anquettes graced with glamorous black-and-white portraits of wartime USO stars. The gourmet dishes, including things like lobster pot pie, are devised by well known chef John Besh.

A second dining area in this same annex is The Stage Door Canteen with 1940s-style live entertainment and a bountiful, tasty, all-you-can-eat buffet of foods prepared by Besh and his staff. Entertainment can range from a lunchtime revue of popular World War II tunes and patriotic songs by young women impersonating the Andrews Sisters and other USO entertainers of the era to a Sunday buffet brunch and show and Friday and Saturday evening dinner-and show playing through Nov. 24, “Jump Jive and Wail! The Music of Louis Prima.’’ Tickets range from $30 to $60. For information and reservations on the shows, call 504-528-1943 or go to www.stagedoorcanteen.org.

— Sue Mullin


ggarvin@MiamiHerald.com

Marine Lt. Leonard Isaaks Jr. was killed on Feb. 20, 1945 during the battle for the Japanese island Iwo Jima. All you really need to know about his death is contained in the painstakingly printed letter found on his body:

Dear Daddy,

Merry Christmas. We wish we could all be together....

Lt. Isaaks’ story is one of many thousands in the National WWII Museum, a whopping 70,000-square-foot repository of America’s collective memory of World War II. Visiting the museum is an intellectually and emotionally walloping passage through a world at bloody, no-quarter war that took 65 million lives and reshaped politics and culture in ways we are still only beginning to understand.

Much more than a bullets-and-bayonets showcase — though there are plenty of those, too — it’s a riveting tale of terror and bravery, blood and gore, homicide and heroism, starring our parents and grandparents.

They narrate it themselves, through letters they wrote home at the time and oral histories they gave later. Sometimes their horror is wide-eyed: A soldier remembers huddling in a foxhole one long frozen night during the Battle of the Bulge in December 1944, listening to a terribly wounded comrade cry, over and over, “Mother, mother, help” until silenced by a burst of machine-gun fire: “That beseeching plea on that clear, cold Christmas night will remain with me for the rest of my life.”

Other times it is disconcertingly matter-of-fact. “We finally hit the beach,” recalls a Marine of the 1944 invasion of Japanese-held Peleliu, “but we went through a whole lot of legs, arms and heads.”

The museum is a seamless blend of objects and narratives, the latter supplied not only through the usual placards but oral histories and short films that can be seen on video consoles scattered through the exhibits. Sometimes it is technologically dazzling — in the four-dimensional film Beyond All Boundaries, shown hourly, soapy “snowflakes” fall from the ceiling during scenes of the Battle of the Bulge and electrically-wired seats rumble like engines as you watch a segment on bomber missions — but it never lets anything get in the way of story-telling.

Sometime the stories need no elaboration from the photos of men with muddy, bloody faces and haunted eyes. Others emerge in their words. Stories emerge from men with muddy, bloody faces and haunted, like those of an emaciated American survivor of the Bataan Death March: “It was something out of, what is it, Dante’s Inferno? It was hell.” Some emerge in grisly chapters: The junior Marine officer who wrote his family from the Pacific that he commanded 46 men, but refused to get to know any of them, because he didn’t want to order a friend to his death; the junior Army officer at Normandy who saw 23 of his 24 men killed in a single 25-yard stretch of sand.

Even the most mundane artifact in the display cases has a tale to tell. The wristwatch that Pvt. Harold Baumgartner wore as he stormed ashore at Omaha Beach during the D-Day invasion of France looks quite ordinary, until you learn that it was practically the only thing on his body that was not shot to pieces — he was wounded five times in two days. A photo of five grinning sailors loses its good cheer when you realize that they were the brothers known as the Fighting Sullivans, all killed in a single attack by a Japanese submarine in 1942.

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