Quick Trips

Quick trips: Odessa

A tiny Delaware town that’s big on history

 

Going to Odessa

Getting there: Odessa, Del., is about an hour’s drive south of Philadelphia, 90 minutes from Baltimore-Washington International Airport. Nonstops to Philadelphia take about two hours and 45 minutes and start at $180 from Fort Lauderdale (USAirways, AirTran, Southwest), $210 from Miami (USAirways, American) roundtrip. Nonstops to Baltimore take about 2 1/2 hours and start around $118 from Fort Lauderdale Spirit, AirTran, Southwest), $240 from Miami (American).

WHERE TO STAY

Cantwell House Bed & Breakfast, 107 High St.; 302-378-4179. Country decor and antiques throughout. Two bedrooms in the house from $95. A cottage out back from $150.

Hampton Inn, 117 Sand Hill Dr., Middletown; 302-378-5656; www.hamptoninn.com. About 10 minutes from Odessa. Rooms from $129, including breakfast.

WHERE TO EAT

Cantwell’s Tavern, 109 Main St.; 302-376-0600; www.cantwells-tavern.com. In the historic Brick Hotel building (1822), with early 19th century decor and ambience. Sizable beer menu. Reservations recommended. Lunch entrees start at $10, dinner entrees at $17.

The Hearth, Route 13; 302-378-9901. Home-style cooking located on the highway outside town. Same owner for nearly 50 years. Lunch entrees start at $3.50, dinner entrees at $8.

WHAT TO DO

Historic Odessa Foundation, 302-378-4119; www.historicodessa.org. Open March through December, Tuesday-Saturday 10 a.m. to 4:30 p.m., and Sunday 1 to 4 p.m. Open Monday by reservation. Adults $10, seniors $8 and children younger than 6 free. Tour takes about two hours and includes the Corbit-Sharp, Wilson-Warner and Collins-Sharp houses.

The Friends Meeting House is open to the public on the first and third Sundays of the month from 10:45 a.m. to noon. To visit at other times, call ahead. www.wilmingtondefriendsmeeting.org/odessa.htm.


Washington Post Service

In the colorful parlor, Gulnac pointed out family items, including a marvelous silver tea set owned by David Wilson Jr.’s first wife, Ann, and some of her needlepoint, displayed on the wall. In the dining room, two unusual china cabinets, the shelves shaped like butterfly wings, are built into the wall. Gulnac led us behind the kitchen hearth and showed us two beehive ovens. One member of our group remarked that they looked like pizza ovens. “In those days, it was unusual to have two such ovens,” Gulnac said.

The last house on the tour, the Collins-Sharp house, was built around 1700 and is one of the oldest houses in Delaware. Originally built at Taylors Bridge on the Delaware River, it was moved to Odessa in 1962. It’s a fine example of a very early 18th-century log-and-frame house. Gulnac pointed out the original wallpaper in the entrance that was found beneath layers of paint. I was impressed by the deep rich color of the Queen Anne-style pine molding. Cooking demonstrations over the hearth and dining are offered.

The remaining houses open to the public include the 1855 bank building that houses the headquarters of Historic Odessa, where we saw an informative introductory film about the town. Across the street, we ate lunch at Cantwell’s Tavern (1822), a very popular dining spot and pub offering lunch and dinner in an early 19th-century setting.

Down Main Street from the five Odessa houses is the tiny brick Friends Meeting House (1785) built by David Wilson Sr. Though it’s not part of the Historic Odessa Foundation, it’s well worth a visit, which can be arranged through the Friends Meeting in Wilmington or through Historic Odessa. Downstairs, the simple, plain building with white-washed walls contains three or four rows of wooden benches and a raised area with two more benches. Deborah Buckson explained that this part of Delaware was a main thoroughfare on the Underground Railroad and that oral tradition suggests that runaway slaves were hidden in the meeting house loft. She invited me to take a look.

I climbed a very narrow staircase leading to a trap door in the ceiling and carefully lifted the door. Poking my head through, I saw a small room with a table and a few chairs where women members conducted business meetings after services. A straight-backed bench ran along one wall. It’s believed that a panel between the bench and the wall was removable, and that runaway slaves could be hidden in the small space thus created.

The Friends still hold services in this venerable building, one of the smallest houses of worship in the country, which in a way is a metaphor for Odessa and Delaware. Only a few slaves at a time could be hidden in the loft, or in the cubby hole in the Corbit-Sharp House, but the small steps taken in the great work of freedom were important regardless of the numbers.

James F. Lee teaches journalism at Bucknell University in Pennsylvania.

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