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Wallet-friendly getaways

 

Stretching a dollar in the Caribbean: five destinations within your budget

Special to The Miami Herald

Yeah, sure, the economy is bouncing back and we’re feeling flush, primed for a five-star tropical escape.

Or maybe the dividends of a rebounding stock market haven’t trickled down to your pocketbook quite yet? Perhaps a frugal vacation profile still makes sense? You’ll get no argument from me. But as winter looms on the horizon and travelers line up for Caribbean holidays, sorting through all the island options for the best values can be a challenge.

Five Caribbean destinations rise to the top of the list when it comes to bang for your buck — modest airfares, bargain hotels and solid dining that won’t decimate your wallet.

PORT ANTONIO, JAMAICA

A bohemian aura still pervades lush Port Antonio, the rustic backwater of Jamaica’s east end. Admittedly, some of the hotels are frayed at the edges and downtown is charismatically dilapidated, but the area oozes charm and authenticity — it’s Jamaica before the mega-hotels and cruise ships. Hideaway beaches like Winifred and Long Bay recall the laid-back Negril of the 1970s. Jerk cooking was born here — chicken, ribs and fish bathed in fiery scotch bonnet peppers and spices and slow-grilled over pimento wood and served on paper plates from humble shacks lining the road at Boston Bay. Bamboo raft journeys, originally used to transport bananas from field to port, provide Port Antonio’s irresistibly recumbent signature tourist attraction.

What’s New: While the hotel’s glory days have long passed, the new beach restaurant at Frenchman’s Cove resort, Le Pirate Café (876-993-7270), is an appealing retreat for grilled lobster and burgers, overlooking the resplendent cove. The resort charges a beach access fee of $8 per person.

Tried and True: At Goblin Hill Villas (www.goblinhillvillas.com; 876-925-8108), one- and two-bedroom apartment-style units overlook gin-clear San San Bay. Doubles are $150 and up and include the services of a cook/housekeeper (all hotel rates are for doubles in low season).

Logistics: Plentiful airline service makes Jamaica perhaps the region’s cheapest target, but reaching Port Antonio takes extra effort — the town is a four-hour drive from Montego Bay or 2 1/2 hours from Kingston. Rent a car for the scenic journey from Island Car Rentals (866-978-5335 or 876-929-4429; www.islandcarrentals.com); rates online start at $33 per day.

PUNTA CANA, DOMINICAN REPUBLIC

With more than 4.3 million visitors in 2011, the Dominican Republic is the Caribbean’s top tourism destination. The country’s pursuit of tourist dollars began in the 1970s with the development of European-owned all-inclusive hotels, and for many years the vast majority of visitors were budget-conscious Canadians and Europeans. Today Americans lead the charge, most of them aiming for the shores of Punta Cana and adjoining Bávaro. Here the palm-lined sandscape stretches, almost unbroken, for more than 40 miles, with sprawling all-inclusive resorts lining the shore.

What’s New: The 822-room Now Larimar Punta Cana (www.nowresorts.com; 877-669-9953) is a family-friendly all-inclusive that opened last year. The resort is set on a good stretch of beach and has three pools, seven restaurants and live music daily. Through Dec. 22, a rate of $145 per person is available, including taxes and gratuities and a $200 resort credit (ask for the Triple Play promotion).

Tried and True: One of Punta Cana’s original resorts, Barceló Bávaro Beach Resort (www.barcelo.com; 800-227-2356) received a top-to-bottom, $330 million makeover in 2011, leaving 11 restaurants, the P.B. Dye golf course and 1 1/2 miles of beachfront. Child facilities are strong, but almost a third of the 1991 rooms are in a dedicated adults-only wing. All-inclusive doubles from $312, through Dec. 20.

Logistics: Air-hotel packages typically offer the best value for those winging to the D.R., but choose your all-inclusive resort carefully. Once it’s booked, the style and tone of your vacation will be pretty much set.

BEYOND THE FORTS, PUERTO RICO

Step off the plane and you can feel Puerto Rico’s heat. No, not the tropical heat (though you’ll feel that, too). Arrival in San Juan plunges visitors into the piquant sensuality of a modern Latin culture set against the imposing backdrop of Spanish Colonial history. But while the city has plenty of nightlife and dining, the island has long had a love affair with cars, and exploring the hinterlands reveals Puerto Rico’s shade-grown coffee heritage. Explore beyond San Juan and you’ll find seaside villages, lush rain forests, and deserted tawny beaches — roads are generally good. In the rainforests of El Yunque, hike or frolic in lush waterfalls. At the awesome Arecibo Observatory, scientists have an ear to the heavens, listening for distant signals through a 20-acre satellite dish. In Rincon, on the west coast, playful surfing beaches await.

What’s New: Zip lines have sprung up throughout the Caribbean, but the world’s highest and second longest is found at Toro Verde Adventure Park (www.toroverdepr.com; 787-867-7020), where La Bestia (The Beast) sends riders at speeds of up to 55 mph along a nearly one-mile traverse.

Tried and True: On the south coast, well away from San Juan’s hubbub is Copamarina Beach Resort (800-468-4553; www.copamarina.com), a 106-room family-oriented hotel in the seaside town of Guanica. Rooms start at $145, leaving something in the budget for exploring the UNESCO World Heritage-listed biosphere reserve next door.

Logistics: Puerto Rico is a driving island, and road rules and insurance issues will be familiar to Americans. And note that Puerto Rico has three airports, with increasing (and sometimes more economical) service by JetBlue into both Ponce and Aguadilla airports.

ST. THOMAS, U.S. VIRGIN ISLANDS

A busy port for cruise ships and shopping sprees, St. Thomas’s historic capital, Charlotte Amalie, boasts an outstanding natural harbor engulfed by muscular mountains, and a Danish history that comes alive in evocative passageways paved with cobblestone. Despite considerable development, natural beauty still makes an appearance, especially as you head to less-busy beaches like Lindquist or Brewer’s Bay. day trips by ferry to lovely (but pricey) St. John are easy. Airfares are competitive; discount coupons are common for dining, activities and shops; and pesky surcharges (departure tax, service charges, etc.) are at a minimum. Affordable lodging is found in the hills surrounding Charlotte Amalie, and though you’ll be off the beach, the advantage of bunking down here is a concentration of restaurants. The central location is also convenient to shopping, the airport and ferries to neighboring islands.

What’s New: Hassel Island is the nearly uninhabited outpost in the middle of St. Thomas Harbor and is now incorporated into the Virgin Islands National Park. Rangers serve as guardians for a signal tower, garrison house, old WWII navy barracks and the Creque Marine Railway, the oldest and longest running marine railway in the Western Hemisphere. Explore Hassel’s maritime history with Virgin Islands Ecotours (www.viecotours.com; 877-845-2925), which offers three-hour kayak tours for $99.

Tried and True: Bellavista Bed and Breakfast (www.bellavista-bnb.com; 888-333-3063) is an immaculate four-room boutique inn with an attentive proprietor who eagerly shares tips on the best of the island. With its beautiful harbor panorama, the pool deck is a fine hangout at dawn and dusk — guests are invited to BYOB. Doubles from $175 including hot breakfast.

Logistics: Public transportation is slender, so maximize your sightseeing by renting a car for at least part of your stay. You won’t need a passport to visit St. Thomas, but leave a little room in your suitcase: The USVI duty-free limit is $1,200 (there’s no sales tax); you’ll find particularly good buys on jewelry.

TULUM, MEXICO

An easy day trip from Cancún, this paradisiacal fortress could be the backdrop for a quiet, slightly off-the-grid vacation. Located about 70 miles south of Cancún’s airport, Tulum is the only Maya city built right on the sea, a rocky ruin that promises to be ground zero for taking in end-of-the-world calamities predicted by the Maya for this December. Dozens of small hotels straddle the superb beach to the south, and while prices have headed north the last few years — right along with Tulum’s trendy factor — there are plenty of bargains to be found, especially for those who don’t demand air conditioning, phones and TVs (a flashlight is handy at night when most of the generators get shut off).

What’s New: The nonprofit, locally owned Community Tours Sian Ka’an (www.siankaantours.org; 011-52-984-871-2202) guides visitors through the 1.6-million-acre Sian Ka’an Biosphere, a national park and UNESCO World Heritage Site flush with jungles, mangrove lagoons and unexcavated ruins. A new tour explores the craft of chewing gum, a natural treat first introduced by the Maya.

Tried and True: On a broad, palm-covered property fronting the beach, Amansala Resort (www.amansalaresort.com) offers bohemian chic, yoga retreats and a Bikini Boot Camp, a program designed to fine-tune mind, body and spirit. Doubles from $120.

Logistics: Tulum is 80 miles south of the Cancun airport, but transfers are easy. Buses depart from the airport every couple hours and take about two hours; the ride is $2 ( www.ado.com.mx/ado/index.jsp). Or hop in a colectivo — shared van — and make the trip in 90 minutes for about $70 roundtrip (www.bestday.com; www.olympus-tours.com). Once in Tulum, Iguana Bike Shop rents beach cruisers, mountain bikes and tandem models (www.iguanabike.com).

San Diego-based freelance writer-photographer David Swanson wrote the “Affordable Caribbean” column for Caribbean Travel & Life magazine for 15 years.

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