Entertainment

A new cookbook from Miami pastry chef Hedy Goldsmith

 

Pastry chef Hedy Goldsmith shares bold, unfussy flavors in her first cookbook.

Meet the author

What: ‘Baking Out Loud’ Launch Party

When: 5 p.m. Oct. 7

Where: Books & Books, 265 Aragon Ave., Coral Gables

Contact: 305-442-4408, booksandbooks.com

FYI: Journalist Lydia Martin will conduct a Q&A session with Hedy Goldsmith at 5:30 p.m. Guests who purchase a copy of the book that evening will get a take-home bag of treats.


Snack

Chocolate Caramel Peanut Bars

Who knew you could make your own Snickers bars — without the dubious ingredients? Hedy Goldsmith suggests using Valrhona chocolates for this treat, but any high-quality chocolate will do.

8 ounces milk chocolate, chopped

3/4 cup sugar

1/3 cup heavy cream, at room temperature

6 ounces white chocolate, chopped

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1 cup salted peanuts (preferably Virginia)

Line the bottom and sides of an 8 1/2-by-4 1/2-inch loaf pan with parchment paper or foil, and grease it lightly (preferably with Pam). Melt the milk chocolate in a small heat-proof bowl set over simmering water, stirring until the chocolate is melted and smooth.

Remove the bowl from the heat. Pour half of the milk chocolate into the prepared loaf pan and spread it evenly. Freeze for 15 minutes, until cold.

Make the next layer. In a large saucepan, combine the sugar and 1/4 cup water. Cook over low heat, stirring occasionally, until the sugar is dissolved and the liquid is clear.

Increase the heat to medium high and boil, without stirring, for 3-5 minutes, or until the sugar begins to turn golden brown on the edges. While gently and continually swirling the pan over the heat to even out the color, cook for 2-3 minutes, or until the sugar turns a deep amber.

Slide the pan from the heat and slowly add the cream. Careful! It will splatter up, and the steam is hot. Stir until well blended. Add the white chocolate and salt and stir until the chocolate is melted and the mixture is smooth. Add the peanuts and stir until blended. Set aside for 5 minutes to cool slightly

Pour the peanut mixture into the loaf pan over the milk chocolate and spread it evenly. Freeze for about 45 minutes or until cold and firm.

Once the layer is cold, reheat the remaining milk chocolate, pour it over the caramel and spread it evenly. Refrigerate or freeze for 20-30 minutes, until very cold.

Using the parchment paper or foil pan liner, transfer the candy onto a work surface. Peel away the paper or foil and place the candy on a cutting board. Using a large knife, trim off the edges and cut lengthwise into two 1 1/2-inch-wide strips. Cut each strip into nine pieces. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to five days. Makes 18 pieces.

Source: Adapted from “Baking Out Loud,” by Hedy Goldsmith; Potter, $27.50.

Per serving: 215 calories (52 percent from fat), 13 g fat (5.9 g saturated), 3.4 g monounsaturated), 10 mg cholesterol, 3.5 g protein, 23 g carbohydrates, 1.1 g fiber, 151 mg sodium.


Dessert

Tangerine Campari Sorbet

This is a sorbet for adults. If you can’t find tangerine juice, use blood orange juice or ruby-red grapefruit juice instead.

2/3 cup sugar

Pinch of kosher salt

1 1/2 tablespoons finely grated tangerine zest

2 1/2 cups fresh tangerine juice

1/4 cup Campari

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

In a medium saucepan, combine 1/3 cup water with the sugar and salt. Cook, stirring, over medium heat until just boiling and the sugar is dissolved, about four minutes. Stir in the tangerine zest, tangerine juice, Campari and lemon juice.

Chill the mixture in the refrigerator until very cold, about two hours, or for faster chilling, set the bowl over a larger one filled with ice and a little water. Either way, stir frequently. The chilled mixture can be covered and refrigerated up to two days before churning.

To churn, pour the chilled mixture into an ice cream maker and process according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Serve immediately, or for a firmer sorbet, scrape into a chilled bowl, cover, and freeze until firm, or for up to three days.

Source: Adapted from “Baking Out Loud,” by Hedy Goldsmith; Potter, $27.50.

Per serving: 166 calories (2 percent from fat), 0.2 g fat (0 saturated, 0 monounsaturated), 0 cholesterol, 0.5 g protein, 36 g carbohydrates, 0.4 g fiber, 1 mg sodium.


nancrum@MiamiHerald.com

Here she is, the Queen of Sweets at Michael’s Genuine Food & Drink, and what is she grooving on?

“I’m craving salty, cheesy, meaty smoked stuff.”

Hedy Goldsmith is talking by phone from Austin, Texas. “I’m eating the most amazing thing,” she says, talking around the munches — “a Frito chili pie, layered with Fritos, amazing smoked brisket, barbecue sauce and melted goat cheese.”

Sweet and salt — together — make up the palate-perking tension that plays a big role in Goldsmith’s first cookbook, Baking Out Loud , due out on Tuesday from Clarkson Potter.

She’s not talking about that pinch of salt you add to the dough when you’re baking an apple pie. Goldsmith is adding salt that asserts itself, enhancing, not fighting with, the sweet bits.

“I don’t know if the palate loves it when you’re eating a dessert that’s overly sweet,” Goldsmith says. “Where every note of it is sugar upon sugar. The palate doesn’t have a chance to recover.

“Salt has a hidden nuance of black cherry if it’s hiding behind something else.”

Not every treat in the cookbook is sweet-salty — and not all of them are baked: tangerine Campari sorbet and lemon ricotta pancakes, for instance, chocolate bourbon sorbet and basil panna cotta topped with a little pour of strawberry consommé.

What really binds so many of Goldsmith’s creations together are taste memories that just about anyone around age 55 can instantly summon: S’mores, peanut brittle, marshmallows, lemon meringue pie, Oreos, cinnamon buns, fortune cookies, buttered popcorn from the movie theater. Goldsmith provides the recipes for all of these — made her way. Scratch a baby boomer and she might bleed Strawberry Quik.

And sometimes, salt is the added flavor booster. Goldsmith, a James Beard Award finalist who has hosted the Cooking Channel’s Unique Sweets, presents her sous chef Amy Kalinowski’s version of Snickers: a smooth center of amber caramel and salted peanuts sandwiched between two thin layers of chocolate. The caramel also takes a teaspoon of kosher salt. Goldsmith’s peanut brittle has a healthy sprinkle of fleur de sel.

Sometimes salt has a delivery system: There’s buttered-popcorn gelato and bacon maple pecan ice cream. Goldmith’s everything-but-the-kitchen-sink cookies — “Junk in da Trunk” — pack in morsels of butterscotch, malted milk balls — and potato chips and pretzels.

Her cookbook’s subtitle is Fun Desserts with Big Flavors. Big flavors, but not fussy or overdone.

That wasn’t always Goldsmith’s style. Before she began her collaboration with Michael Schwartz, the Beard Award-winning chef behind Michael’s Genuine Food & Drink and Harry’s Pizzeria in Miami’s Design District, Goldsmith was pastry chef at the late, great Mark’s Place in North Miami. Her desserts there were serious, capital S.

“My desserts had 16 elements — a chocolate tart with black cherries and paired with goat cheese ice cream and 17 flavors that built on each other,” Goldsmith says, exaggerating. “But there was no one flavor that stood out. They were thoughtful and well-executed, but there were so many elements. I would think: ‘What else can I put on that plate?’ ”

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