The good news for fashionistas: You won’t have to head out to shop for a whole new wardrobe.
From what we could gather on the runways at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week, come spring/summer 2013, we’ll be able to hold onto a lot of clothes from last year and add a few key pieces. The overall vibe is fun meets elegant, wearable, yet glamorous, ladylike but sexy.
In with the old
A surefire way to keep us on the StairMaster? Mini shorts, which are getting more and more dressed up. Bahraini label Noon by Noor put out a coppery, sparkly pair with a cropped, tailored jacket. Charlotte Ronson’s were sailor style, with cute buttons down each side. Jill Stuart went for the high waist and didn’t add much material below that point. Her black creations, topped with a conservative blazer, were more bikini bottoms than daywear. Not that those itty bitties would turn heads in South Beach.
Maxi dresses, so ideal to move you from day to night, won’t be gathering dust, either. What’s so wonderful for warm weather people is that they’re billowy, effortless, glamorous and cool. Expect to see them in animal prints or digital prints (computer generated), and in shades of royal blue, lemon yellow and coral.
Color blocking was the thing at the high-drama show by Proenza Schouler, a brand co-run by Miami native Lazaro Hernandez (with partner Jack McCollough). But the takeaway lesson was: If you buy one thing this season, please let it be an A-line black leather skirt.
Carlos Miele showed us a great way to accessorize last season’s dress: Wrap it up. Many of his models strutted out in floral scarves tied about the waist, used as capes or ponchos, trains and sashes a la beauty queens. If Miele has his way, we’d be all carrying around fringed hippie bags.
Custo Barcelona was also big on fringe and tying veils about the waists. The show was called X-Ray, thanks to all the sexy, transparent fabrics, said head designer Custo Dalmau. Charlotte Ronson also trotted out see-through plastic jackets that make you pray for rain.
Speaking of transparent, look out for lots of flesh tones. Various designers like Jill Stuart and Badgley Mischka put forth shades of beige; the latter an impressive jumpsuit-meets-pantsuit, which was more flattering that you’d think. Stuart’s collection, a mélange of lace, cutouts and bouncy hemlines, was about “faded Hollywood glamour” with a nod to lingerie, she said.
Also partial to simple, neutral tones: Pamella Roland, who was inspired by American artist Ellsworth Kelly and his pure, clean lines. The Neiman Marcus favorite said her things were for a “mother or a businesswoman. She’s you and I.” A prevalent color was royal blue among the gray, black and white.
Ah, white. Another hit. We saw quite a few styles that could double as wedding gowns. Angel Sanchez’s embossed organza number with black geometric stones set many iPhones on fire. And Reem Acra’s so-called Vika dress dropped a few jaws with its come-hither, cut-out side panels. No doubt we’ll see something similar come red-carpet awards season.
Standing in for black at the Acra show was midnight blue— or, for laypeople, navy. It’s actually a gorgeous hue and long overdue for its spotlight. Maybe we can shove off the funeral wear for a while and leave it to the New Yorkers?
Another prevalent theme at Fashion Week was reams of sporty apparel, perhaps as an ode to the Olympics. Y-3, the 10-year-old collaboration of Adidas and Yohji Yamamoto, managed to get the iconic three-stripe logo onto basically everything. Check out the stuff soon at the store in Miami’s Design District.
Y-3’s Design District neighbor Martin Margiela approached S/S2013 with a chill attitude. Models strapped on oversized fanny packs that could fit a sleeping bag; as well as netted vests over button-down shirts; varsity-esque jackets; and slouchy cargo shorts.
“Prints, soft volume and ease play a key role,’’ in the spring/summer line, according to the collective, headed by a few designers (Margiela departed the company in 2009). “These garments lend themselves to the more casual moments of life.”
Ready to wear
More casualness was afoot at Daisy Fuentes’ first outing at Fashion Week. The TV personality discovered ideas for her eponymous Kohl’s line while in Ibiza. “I was inspired by the mix of traditional Spanish ‘gypsy style’ with the more chic, hippie beach vibe of the European jet set,’’ says Fuentes.
Major standout: Pajama pants that can be dressed up or down (as in to bed).
“I love the bright, colorful prints and the relaxed, flowing fabrics.”
So do we, so do we.