Quick trips: New York

Distilling the Hudson Valley’s revolutionary past

 

Going to the Hudson Valley

Getting there: JetBlue has one daily nonstop from Fort Lauderdale to Newburgh, N.Y., about 20 miles from Gardiner and 60 miles from Hudson. Southwest flies a daily nonstop from Fort Lauderdale to Albany, 35 miles from Hudson, 75 miles from Gardiner. Both flights last about three hours. There are no nonstops from Miami to either city. New York City airports are about two hours from the southern end of this region.

Hudson Valley Cider Route: http://appleproject.glynwood.org/ciderroute

Information: www.travelhudsonvalley.org

WHERE TO STAY

Union Street Guest House, 345-349 Union St., Hudson; 518-828-0958; www.unionstreetguesthouse.com. Greek Revival home turned boutique hotel in historic downtown Hudson. Rooms from $200.

Inn at the Falls, 50 Red Oaks Mill Rd., Poughkeepsie; 845-462-5770; www.innatthefalls.com. A 36-room inn in a quiet part of town, recently bought by the Best Western chain and fully renovated. Rooms from $110.

WHERE TO EAT

Cafe Le Perche, 230 Warren St., Hudson; 518-822-1850; www.cafeleperche.com. Homey French-influenced fare featuring artisanal breads. Sandwiches, salads and entrees $9-$22.

The Historic Village Diner, 7550 N. Broadway, Red Hook; 845-758-6232; www.historic-village-diner.com. A remarkably well-preserved early-20th-century diner offering classic American dishes. Breakfast specials from $4.50.

WHAT TO DO

Soons Orchard and Farm Market, 23 Soons Cir., New Hampton; 845-374-5471; www.soonsorchard.com. A family-run orchard featuring apples, fresh cider, homemade baked goods and other produce and regional products; seeking a license for a hard-cider tasting room.

Tuthilltown Spirits, 14 Grist Mill Lane, Gardiner; 845-633-8734; www.tuthilltown.com. Adjacent to the historic Tuthilltown Gristmill, offering tastings of its handcrafted spirits ($10) as well as tours ($15 including tasting, $10 without). Tours by reservation only; may be booked online.

Montgomery Place Orchards and Annandale Cidery, 8 Davis Way, Annandale-on-Hudson; 845-758-6338; www.mporchards.com. The orchard isn’t regularly open to the public, but its hard cider and other products are available at its farm market at routes 9G and 199 (closed in winter). Group tours can sometimes be arranged by calling in advance.


Special to The Washington Post

We climbed a creaky metal ladder, my mother and I following Gable Erenzo into an attic splotched with October sunlight. “These are all experiments,” he said, gesturing to a jumble of three-gallon oak casks, 53-gallon whiskey barrels and seemingly every size in between.

The attic — in Gardiner, N.Y., above the tasting room where Erenzo and other employees of Tuthilltown Spirits pour sips of their New York Corn Whiskey and Hudson Manhattan Rye — exhaled a museumlike aroma of wood and dust.

It was a fitting smell. We’d planned our trip to the Hudson Valley to visit artisans who have recently begun bringing back hard cider and apple brandy — the stuff of colonial taverns, Revolutionary War rations and local myth. A 1940 New York travel guide describes gnomes who danced under the full moon and “brewed a liquor that shortened the body and swelled the head.” Henry Hudson’s crew, it continues, is said to have made their acquaintance: “When the sailors departed, they were distorted by the magic distillation, which, we moderns know, was Catskill applejack.”

My mother, thankfully, remained undistorted. But when I tried the oaky, vanilla-scented apple distillate that Erenzo drew from a small cask, my head did swell a bit with thoughts of another legendary place: France, particularly the province of Normandy, home of refreshingly funky ciders and fruity, mysterious Calvados.

We hadn’t come to New York only because of the cider and brandy revival; we’d come because I’d heard that producers were looking to France for inspiration. Glynwood, a farmland conservation nonprofit group, had recently launched its Apple Exchange, bringing cidermakers and distillers to the Hudson Valley from the Norman region of Le Perche, a gastronomic stronghold of “stone houses with red-tiled roofs and herds of white cows on dazzling green pastures,” as Exchange facilitator Colette Rossant once wrote. The French have shared traditional wisdom and techniques. Online, I’d even discovered Cafe Le Perche, a local bakery that had installed a French wood-burning oven and begun replicating the region’s distinctive baguettes.

A patch of Normandy in New York? It was a captivating idea. And, at the very least, a good excuse to spend a warm fall day among farms, estates and factory towns turned weekend destinations.

What we found, of course, wasn’t quite France but a uniquely American culinary landscape — part historic farmland and part farm-to-table escape, with a hint of joie de vivre. Think George Washington retired to Mount Vernon, savoring his usual applejack with the Marquis de Lafayette.

My mother and I began the day in Beacon, about 60 miles north of Manhattan, an artsy town worth exploring if you have the time. Driving west, we crossed the Hudson River’s Newburgh-Beacon Bridge, a stretch of rusted steel that won an American Institute of Steel Construction “most beautiful bridge” award in 1964. Like so many things in the Hudson Valley, it’s both unusually grand and unusually quaint.

The same is true of the 101-year-old Soons Orchard and Farm Market, a sweep of Colonial-looking houses and barns near the town of New Hampton, containing an explosion of mums, homemade jams, apple-sorting equipment and children on their parents’ shoulders — all of which manages to convey not disorder but lively abundance. “It’s conceivable that people could miss everything going on over here,” said Jeff Soons, who is seeking a license to open a tasting room for his Orchard Hill Cider Mill.

Read more Quick Trips stories from the Miami Herald

Miami Herald

Join the
Discussion

The Miami Herald is pleased to provide this opportunity to share information, experiences and observations about what's in the news. Some of the comments may be reprinted elsewhere on the site or in the newspaper. We encourage lively, open debate on the issues of the day, and ask that you refrain from profanity, hate speech, personal comments and remarks that are off point. Thank you for taking the time to offer your thoughts.

The Miami Herald uses Facebook's commenting system. You need to log in with a Facebook account in order to comment. If you have questions about commenting with your Facebook account, click here.

Have a news tip? You can send it anonymously. Click here to send us your tip - or - consider joining the Public Insight Network and become a source for The Miami Herald and el Nuevo Herald.

Hide Comments

This affects comments on all stories.

Cancel OK

  • Videos



  • Quick Job Search

Enter Keyword(s) Enter City Select a State Select a Category