Travel

Autumn USA

Leaf peeping

 

New Hampshire’s rugged mountains are canvasses for dramatic color

Going to New Hampshire

TIPS FOR LEAF PEEPERS

The foliage is at its brightest in Vermont and New Hampshire because of the abundance of vivid hardwood trees that display their color on the canvasses of the mountainsides. Vermont offers soft mountains and quaint villages, while New Hampshire has more dramatic scenery. Both offer beautiful driving routes through the gaps, notches and gorges that cut across the mountains.

Desirable inns and resorts for foliage season are booked weeks in advance. Late callers have a better chance of finding vacancies by traveling mid-week. Check ski lodges, which are overlooked by many travelers. Big resort areas like Killington in Vermont and Loon Mountain in New Hampshire have their own reservation services to help visitors.

Fall foliage begins in late September in northern Vermont and New Hampshire, usually peaking around Columbus Day. Those who miss the show can still find plenty of beauty as the color moves south in mid-to late October to the lower mountain areas of Connecticut and Massachusetts. The timing of peak color varies year to year depending on the weather. Yankee Magazine has a useful site forecasting peak color as it travels: www.yankeefoliage.com. Individual states also have sites such as visitnh.gov/foliage or Vermontvacation.com/foliageforecaster.

Air fares may help you decide where to go, so it can be wise to check several options. Boston serves New Hampshire and the Berkshire Mountains in western Massachusetts, Burlington is the main gateway to Vermont’s Green Mountains, while Hartford is close to scenic Litchfield County, Conn., in the Berkshire foothills. Portland is the nearest access to the mountains in western Maine bordering New Hampshire.

WHERE TO STAY

All these lodgings have mountain views; rates given are for peak foliage season.

Sugar Hill Inn, 116 New Hampshire 117, Sugar Hill; 800-548-4748; www.sugarhillinn.com. Tasteful 1748 inn with fine dining in a charming village above Franconia; $150-$330 with full breakfast, suites $210-$425.

Franconia Inn, 1172 Easton Rd., Franconia; 603-823-5542; www.franconiainn.com. Old-fashioned inn on 107 quiet acres, tennis, pool, horseback riding, fishing; $159-$239 with full breakfast.

Hilltop Inn, 9 Norton Lane, Sugar Hill; 603-823-5695; www.hilltopinn.com. Old-fashioned bed and breakfast, circa 1895, delightful innkeepers; $145-$195 with full breakfast.

Omni Mt. Washington Resort, Route 302, Bretton Woods; 603-278-1000; www.mtwashingtonresort.com. Beautiful 1902 classic nicely updated by Omni, golf, tennis, zipline, year-round ice skating, fishing, horseback riding, trails, pool; $259-$319, suites from $419.

White Mountain Hotel & Resort, Hales Location, 2560 West Side Rd., North Conway; 800-533-6301; www.whitemountainhotel.com. Newer hotel built with the look of a classic, secluded yet near town, golf, tennis, pool, trails; $219-$249 with continental breakfast.

The Inn at Thorn Hill & Spa, Thorn Hill Road, Jackson Village; 603-383-4242; www.innatthornhill.com. Upscale small inn and spa in a pretty village; $195-$350 with full breakfast, MAP $245-$400.

WHERE TO EAT

1785 Inn, Route 16, North Conway; 603-356-9025, www.the1785inn.com. Eclectic dining in lovely setting, entrees $18-$29.

Horsefeathers Restaurant, 2679 White Mountain Hwy., North Conway; 603-356-2687, www.horsefeathers.com. Town favorite for informal dining since 1976, entrees $10-$23.

Polly’s Pancake Parlor, 672 Route 117, Sugar Hill; 603-823-5575, www.pollyspancakeparlor.com. A local legend for corn meal and whole wheat pancakes and waffles with luscious fillings, $4.99-$9.99.

In addition, several of the inns and hotels listed above have notable restaurants, including:

Sugar Hill Inn: Elegant dining, four-course prix fixe, $60.

Franconia Inn: Varied American menu, entrees, $22-$32.

Inn at Thorn Hill: Fine dining, entrees $22-$29.

White Mountain Hotel: Excellent American menu, $15-$29, also sandwich menu, $8-$11.


Travel Arts Syndicate

The brilliant golds and reds of autumn make New England a legendary fall destination, drawing connoisseurs of color from around the world. The entire region shares the bounty, but New Hampshire, with New England’s highest mountains as a backdrop, stands above its neighbors for dramatic scenery.

The rugged granite peaks of the White Mountains, stark and grand, are awesome to behold, rising above vast vistas of color. The spectacle is brighter thanks to the abundance of hardwood trees, which produce the most vivid hues, especially the bright red sugar maples that yield the region’s famous maple syrup.

Several drives through the mountains are famed for their scenery and the hiking is so choice that the Appalachian Mountain Club has headquarters here, with several convenient huts and lodges to accommodate visitors on foot. The Appalachian Trail laces through the area. Scenic train and chair lift rides add to the beauty.

Those traveling from afar will find easy access to the mountains from Boston’s Logan Airport. A 140-mile drive on Route I-93 from Boston leads to the stunning panorama of peaks and valleys, awesome gorges, tumbling waterfalls and ice-blue mountain lakes of Franconia State Park. Franconia Notch within the park is a spectacular mountain pass traversed by an eight-mile parkway running from the Flume Gorge at the south to Echo Lake at the north, winding between the high peaks of the Kinsman and Franconia mountain ranges.

The Flume is a natural gorge whose 70- to 90-foot granite walls extend for 800 feet along the southern flank of Mount Liberty. A wooden walkway crisscrossing the stream leads to the crescendo of sound that announces Avalanche Falls, a torrent crashing 23 feet down the canyon. Another fine walk is the 1 1/2-mile trail to Artist’s Bluff, a rocky palisade with fine views of the Franconia and Kinsman Range.

The view that beats them all is the cable car ascent via the Cannon Mountain Aerial Tramway to the 4,200-foot peak of Cannon Mountain. This was the first such lift in America and remains one of the most thrilling. The present tram completed in the 1980s goes a mile straight up affording amazing views of the White Mountain ranges in their best fall dress. On a clear day you can see four states and Canada.

More spectacular scenery awaits on one of New England’s most beautiful scenic drives, the Kancamagus Highway (Route 112), running for 32 miles through the heart of the White Mountains from Lincoln to Conway. To access the highway, drive south from Franconia to Lincoln (17 miles), perhaps making a stop here for another birds-eye view from the Loon Mountain gondola, which bills itself as the state’s longest aerial ride. The tartan-clad competitors in New England’s largest Celtic festival, the 37th annual New Hampshire Highland Games, will add another kind of color to the area from Sept. 21 to Sept. 23.

The Rocky Gorge area where the Swift River has worn a cleft in the rock makes for a special stop along the highway. Falls Pond is a five-minute walk over the gorge via a rustic footbridge. Some other easy walks are to Boulder Loop, with a fine vista of Mt. Chocorua and the Swift River Valley and Sabbaday Falls, a picturesque series of cascades in a narrow flume. You could spend an hour here — or a day.

In Conway, the end of the drive, it’s possible to take a break aboard an old-fashioned train on the Conway Scenic Railroad. But an even more memorable ride awaits by taking Route 302, the best route back to I-93. This is the major artery of the Mount Washington Valley. It runs through busy North Conway and offers lovely detours through peaceful villages like Jackson and scenic passes like Crawford Notch or the road to Cathedral Ledge in Echo Lake State Park, a park with many leafy hiking paths. The intersection at Route 16 leads to Bretton Woods and literally one of the biggest attractions in the state, Mt. Washington.

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